Flymo problems model 350 clutch brake does not release causing belt to break.

no ibfo generic answer --check drive belt --popped off --broke--pulley problem--trans axle problem ---key way on wheel sxle damaged or missing

You should only put the car in neutral then apply the brake.
If you continue to drive with the brake and the clutch it's going to burn out the clutch.
Just when you are coming up to a light take the shifter out of gear and then put it in neutral then apply the brakes.
You will notice the car will drive better
Hope this helps.
The stuttering and jerking motion means usually that you are starting at a to high of a gear or to low. The brake will cause the situation you are having. if you are applying it any time during shifting

Not much information to work with like make and model but I can make some general suggestions. A badly worn belt will sometimes leave rubber residue on the pullies causing them to be grabby so they won't release. If the belt is old I would replace it and clean any residue from the pullies and make sure they are smooth. If it is a new belt I wold look for a place in the linkage to adjust it each way to see if it helps. This may require removing covers or other things in the way. The clutch arm will usually have something on the backside of the belt that puts a pinch on the belt to hold it when the tension is released. This can be a formed part of the clutch arm that may be bent out of position or a bolted on piece that can be adjusted. Some clutch arms have a brake pad that presses on the transmission pully to stop it from turning and that could be missing.

My question would be what caused the belt to break. Have you checked under the mower deck to make sure the blades turn freely? Could be that something is jamming them and causing the motor to die. Or even a blade that hit something hard might be bent against the top of mower deck.

look for a broken spring or belt

This is a neutral drain direct drive machine which drains the water first prior to spinning. After draining out the water completely, the motor pauses then restarts to spin the tub. It is possible that the problem is in the lid switch. If the motor is running during the spin cycle then the lid switch is good, otherwise it is indeed the problem.

The problem can be either in the brake particularly the cam driver or the clutch assembly. The clutch hub is attached to the spin pinion gear and as the spin pinion gear turns, the clutch hub also turns. The clutch lining is forced against the clutch hub by the clutch spring. As the clutch hub turns, friction between it and the clutch lining causes the clutch lining to turn. As the clutch turns, the tab that holds the clutch spring on the lining, contacts the brake cam driver, releasing the brake. The tab on the clutch lining remains in contact with the brake cam driver, holding the brake released and then providing power to the spin tube through the brake release.



The basket will not spin if the brake cam driver is broken because the brakes cannot be released. If the clutch spring is weak, the friction between the clutch hub and the clutch lining is not sufficient for the clutch tab to push the cam driver and release the brakes.

Check and replace, if necessary, the brake cam driver and the clutch assembly particularly the clutch spring and the clutch lining.

I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).

The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.

I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.

I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.

NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.

There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.

The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.

This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.

These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.

I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.

What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.

Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.

Good Luck...
Rayko

FUNNY THIS HAPPENS ALL THE TIME ,YOU HAVE TO PULL IT BACK,THE BRAKEBAR I MEAN, THEY CAN BE REALY HARD TO PULL BACK I HAVE NEVER KNOWN OF ONE TO BREAK BUT THEY CAN BE HARD TO SO MUSCLE UP AND AWAY YOU GO

you need to grease the pins or bolt slides in the brake caliper.

There is a safety switch on the clutch pedal, that's not the problem
look at the seat safety switch .