Where can I buy tool grips for my hammers? - Tools & Hardware - Others

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This method has a high percent chance of working ... but does require buying/renting the tool. However ... start first with a penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. Other ways if you do not want to go the impact hammer route ... but somewhat similar: Put your Torx bit into the bolt head and give it some sharp raps with a hammer. Sort of like the impact hammer this shocks the bolt in the threaded seat and hopefully breaks the corrosion. If you end up stripping the torx head then things get more complicated .... may have to cut a clean slot with an angle grinder and use a slotted screwhead. Sometimes if the bolt head sticks out far enough from the surface you can get a pair of vice grips on it to get a lot of leverage on the bolt. Good luck ... since this can be real frustrating getting the corroded bolt out!

Buy an extractor socket, like this

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Drills-Drivers-Bits/Bits-Screw-Bolt/bolt-extractors-irwin-53902?utm_source=google_pr&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bits-Screw-Bolt-Extractors-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CJvM2YfB3bcCFYLm7Aodu2oAsQ
or, hammer on a smaller socket sometimes works

vice grips sometimes will work, but usually only on smaller bolts

the extractor socket is your best bet if you can afford it.

The chucks on the 11236 are designed to be removed, if you were not aware of this it may look like the tool has failed, it has not. To replace the chuck set the chuck back on the shaft of the tool, grip the outer collar of the chuck and rotate it counterclockwise while pushing down .The chuck will drop into a set of grooves on the shaft and lock there, give it a wiggle after to make sure its seated. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it. To remove it just grip the collar turn counterclockwise and pull up, the chuck will come off.

Any milwaukee service station. They will need the catalog # and serial #.

If the chuck is too tight to get the bit out you can either put a glove on one hand grab the chuck and run the drill in the reverse direction or if that will not work use vise grips or a small pipe wrench on the chuck to loosen it but be sure to tape the pipe wrench or vise grips with a thin piece of duct tape so you don't gouge the drill chuck.

If it's the left front door, the hinges are welded. There is a pin that goes in the hinge. You'll have to get a long punch and a hammer to drive the pins out. If you have a relatively long 3/8 socket, you can invert it so it fits over the top of the pin to get it started. Then as the head becomes visible, you can lock a pair of vice grips on the pin and tap it out. Sometimes a pry bar is enough to finish the job. There may be a special tool to get the pins out, but I haven't seen it.

Hammer
Long punch
Vice Grips
Long 3/8 extension
Pry Bar

Patience

Hope that helped. Thanks for using FixYa.

Hi,
Follow the steps to replace hand grip :
Remove two screws near battery
Remove the tiny screws on each side of the hand grip release.
Once screws are removed, gently prise of button. Do not attempt to remove the lever.
Remove the four screws holding the eyepiece in place.
Once the four screws are removed, pull out the eyepiece, notice the button that operates the cartridge access.
On the top of the camera, using a pointed tool and light hammer, gently tap in an anti-clockwise direction.
Now slowly lift from the front, taking care not to damage the power zoom buttons on the other side, and slide towards rear of camera to remove cover.
With the camera facing you, remove screws below the lens, then gently remove the side cover above the hand grip.
Use a blade to scrap away glue around the two screw heads, then remove screws. Then, using a pointed tool, insert into one of the small holes, and using a light hammer, gently tap to unscrew the hand grip screw.
Thats it hand grip is removed . Now replace the hand grip and follow the above steps in vice versa .


Hope this helps .

Do you know what a Slide Hammer looks like? A long rod with a handle on the end, and a weight that slides on the rod. The weight hits against a stop made into the handle. At the end of the rod you attach various tools. You can attach a hook, or a threaded bolt, or screw, and many other attachments.

The reason I described a Slide Hammer, is that there is a miniaturized version of it, to remove hard to get at seals. At the end of this tool it has two 'fingers'. (Spring steel pieces of hooked flat metal) These fingers are forced through the rubber part of the seal, and the fingers spread out. They catch the metal outer ring of the seal.

Then the weight on this small slide hammer is slid hard against the handle, and after a few taps it withdraws the seal.

This link is to illustrate one companies version of this tool,

http://www.nextag.com/OTC-Tools-OTC1173-Slide-538274577/prices-html

Kind of pricey if a person just wants to use it one or two times! However it is the proper professional way.

There is another method that you may want to consider. Not a professional method, but if done correctly, it can save you in a pinch. (And also save $80 to $100 for the above tool!)

With this method you have to use care not to scratch the selector rod shaft, nor accidentally scratch the bore of the transmission, where the seal goes into.
A sturdy pick tool with a curved hook end is used. You carefully feed the tip of the curved hook, through the rubber portion of the seal. Then you clamp a pair of vise grips onto the pick tool towards the end of the tool. (Opposite end of the curved hook)

Making - Sure the tip of the hook, is resting against the middle of the metal part of the seal, you tap the pair of vise grips with a Small hammer. Tap the vise grips so that they are pulling against the tool, pulling the seal out.

Use the tool to pull out on the seal's metal ring on one side, then slide the tool over to the opposite side, and start tapping again. Keep working around the seal, until you work it out far enough to grab it with pliers, or needle nose vise grips.

most of these types of tools have a manual switch it will be located on the body of the drill just behind the chuck on top or bottom or oposit the grip handle. some models have 2 switches.you want to make sure the switch points to the picture that shows a hammer and drill together.also rember it needs to have down pressure for the hammer part to activate.