The front seal boot on the washer started to leak. I have removed the old boot but am having difficulties installing the new boot. Is there a trick to installation? The main problem is how do you get the boot over the metal edge and get the spring to keep it in place.
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Re: Front washer seal (boot)
It is easier to do this job if the machine can be leaned back By leaning it back, the tub will hang back from the front panel and you will have increased space to work. If leaning it back is not possible, then a 6 or 8 inch block of wood can be wedge between the front panel and the tub to hold the tub back out of the way. Using some liquid dishwasher soap sparingly lubricate this groove on the boot to make it easier to slip onto the lip of the tub shell. With the boot in one hand and with the other hand
spreading the lip and groove (on the boot near the arrow), force the lip into the groove behind the lip at the top of the opening on the tub shell. Using spacers provided with the new boot, hold the spring in place in the groove on the outside perimeter of the
boot. these spacers will prevent the spring from popping out when you let go of it to use both hands to stretch it further around the boot. Begin by pushing the spring down into the groove just forward
from where the boot contacts the front tub shell at about the 12 o’clock position. While holding the spring in place with one hand, use the other to tightly wedge the spacer above it, between
the spring (in its groove) and the weight ring above it. Working to the right, push the spring down into the groove. Once the spring has been installed about 90 degrees around the opening from the first spacer, the spring will begin to get tight. Install another spacer at that point. Check the first spacer to make sure it stays in place. Continue working your way around until you reach
180 degrees from the first spacer. Install the third spacer. The spring will be extremely tight now. Once you have gone more than half way around, the spring will be easier to roll into the rest of the groove.
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You need to get a new seal. You can probably change this yourself. There is a wire clamp holding it in place that you will have to remove before getting the old seal off and installing the new seal. Finally, you will have to replace the clamp.
The door seal on a front loader is usually part of the boot that seals the drum from the front panel of the machine. It is held on over lips on the door and outer drum. Pull the seal away from the front panel and it should reveal the lip, now pull the seal off the lip working around the whole area. Push the seal into the drum and work it off that lip too. Replacement is the opposite of the removal and just requires a little patience. (Take you old seal with when purchasing a new one to make sure you get the right part).
Either the switch striker/actuator on the door is worn or the door lock/switch assembly on the right side of the door opening is faulty. It is recommended to replace both parts when one is faulty or worn. The door lock/switch assembly is part number 1094190 and costs about $55. The switch striker/actuator is part number 906446 and costs about $5.
Door Lock/Switch Replacement Procedure
Unplug the machine.
Open the machine's door.
Locate the retainer spring of the seal boot retaining hoop at the bottom of the door opening.
Stretch the retainer spring apart then remove the retaining hoop.
Ease the edge of the seal boot off the lip of the door opening near the door lock/switch assembly. Remove enough of the seal boot to gain access to the door lock/switch assembly behind the front panel of the washer. Be careful not to tear the seal boot. It will cause water to leak out of the machine.
Remove the three screws securing the door lock/switch assembly to the front panel.
Slightly lift the door lock/switch assembly, pull it away from the front panel then pull it out of the machine.
Disconnect the wiring harness and connect the new door lock/switch assembly.
Reinstall the new door lock/switch assembly and the seal boot in reverse order of the procedure above.
front gasket/door boot.... replacement isn't easy but do-able. first remove three screws that hold front lower panel on and remove panel (where lint filter is). then remove 3 screws that hold on top panel (screws located at rear of top of washer), next remove 3 screws on top front of washer, then remove 4 screws that secure the contol panel. you must remove the washer door at this point, just a few screws and pin hold the door on. now, remove control panel by gently pulling the top away from the washer, it's held by a few plastic snaps. then, remove three screws that secure front panel of washer. now you're ready to remove the old boot/gasket. first look toward lower right side of gasket and pull the spring and remove wire that secures front of gasket. next... at about 3 o'clock on the gasket you'll find a longer screw (about 3 inches) that secures the rear of the gasket. loosen this screw until you can remove the gasket. remove the water inlet and hose from the boot/gasket.... now remove gasket from washer. you're ready to install new boot/gasket. find the small triangle on the new gasket and line this up w/the triangel at the top of wash tub. begin working the gasket onto the lip of tub, make sure to align the triangle and water outlets of the gasket w/the triangle and outlets of the washer tub. once back of gasket is on install the rear wire holder and tighten screw to former tightness. now work front of gasket onto the lip of washer, install spring wire to secure the front. place water inlet and hose into respective holes on the gasket. put front panel back on, put door on, put control panel on, put top on... and wash. like i said, not easy but do-able... i completed it in 1.5 hrs w/no instruction.
while the seals in the calipers are replaceable, its probably easier just to get a new/re manufactured caliper. if for any reason the seals don't work perfectly you could lose control of the vehicle when attempting to stop. with that said i'll try to explain the best i can how to replace the seals in the calipers for that vehicle.
1. jack up the front of the vehicle, place on jackstands and remove the front wheels, make sure the parking brake is on 2. unbolt the caliper and unbolt the brake line from the caliper and take caliper to a clean bench 3. remove the dust boot retaining ring on the caliper that holds the boot to the caliper itself 4. using a blowgun with a rubber tip apply low pressure compressed air where the brake line was bolted to the caliper to push the piston out of the bore (be carefull and ready because the piston may shoot out with some force) 5. when the piston comes out you will need to replace the dust boot and the seal so remove the boot and seal carefully so you don't scratch the piston ( the seal is actually in the caliper piston bore hole)and throw out the old seal and boot. 6. inspect all the surfaces and make sure there are no imperfections at all on the piston, the piston bore, or the caliper, if the surfaces are marred in anyway, replace the caliper, if they are good, using brake cleen and compressed air clean all parts then dry them 7. get the new seal and lubricate with DOT 3 brake fluid 8. install new seal into the caliper bore 9. apply a thin coat of DOT 3 brake fluid to the piston itself 10. install bottom half the the caliper piston into the caliper bore. 11. install new dust boot seal onto the piston 12. compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore 13. fully seat the dust boot seal into the caliper and install retaining ring 14. reinstall on vehicle (make sure to use a NEW copper washer on the brake line to caliper fitting) and bleed the braking system while checking for leaks.
repeat process for the other side.
if the caliper leaks at all from the piston after seal replacement, replace the caliper.
make sure you properly bleed the brakes before attempting to drive your car.
*these direction were extracted from personal experience and manufacturer information*
no need to remove front panel
remove clamp that holds boot to cabinet and peel away boot
take top off
undo clamp that holds boot to tub and pull boot off
lubricate slot in new boot that goes on to lip of tub
starting at top, insert slot onto lip of tub and work your way round in both directions pushing slot onto lip
push door boot onto lip of cabinet and refit outer clamp
test on rinse cycle for leaks (water level is higher
water will be a bit foamy till fluid is washed away
Once you have your replacement boot (or seal) (availible at local appliance parts stores or from the manufactures web site on line), You can follow these steps:
1 - Remove the front clamp. (a silver peice of wire with a spring at the botom) A small flat head screwdriver will let you pull/pry it off.
2 - You may have a green clamp on a black hose that comes from the dispenser to the top of the boot (seal) on some models that you will have to disconnect.
3 - The main water inlet (about the 9 o'clock position can just be pulled off (and worked back on durring re-instalation)
4 - Remove the second clamp on the back side of the boot (it's a flat piece of metal that has a screw on it at about the 3 oclock position. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen. (clockwise for installing the new boot)
5 - Pull the old boot free.
6 - Reverse the procedure making sure to line the new boot up at the top. (there is a arrow that shows where to align the tub [white piece of plastic] and the boot). There is lip on the back of the boot that will seat all of the way around it.
7 - When putting the front clamp back on (the wire and spring combo) there is also a lip to seat around the front as well. When putting on the clamp, use a small flat head screwdriver inserted into one of the holes next to the spring. Then using a pair of needle nose pliers or another screw driver, work the way around the edge re-seating the clamp over the lip.
To make it easier and give a bit more room for this, you can pull the machine forward, then tilt it back until the machine will balance resting against the rear wall. This will give you more room)
You can easily remove the lower front panel by removing the 1/4" screws along the bottom of the panel and lowering it down. Not only will this give you some beter angles, but it will also let you check quickly for leaks once you start the machine again.
Okay, to check for your source of a leak, start by removing the 2 screws on the lower front panel of the machine. This will let you see inside. As you are running the washer, watch where the water is coming from. If from the front, you may have a hole in your boot (the black rubber up front) If so, you may need to replace the boot (the part comes with step by step instructions). If coming from the middle, your tub seal may be going bad. A quick fix is tighten the 12 or 14 bolts that go all of the way around your tub. This will only be a temporary measure. The tub will have to be taken apart and the seal replaced. (this is a 1 1/2 hour - 2 hour procedure for 2 technicians) If it leaking from the rear, you may have a bad tub bearing. You can remove the back panel to be certain, but usually a bad bearing will be accompanied by a roaring noise durring the spin cycle. As for the dryer leaving brown marks? Usually the front seal has been dammaged. Run your finger around the front of the drum (where it meets the front panel) the gap should be about the same all of the way around. If it is not, you may need a new front seal. (this is much cheaper and less time consuming on the dryer compared to a seal on the washer)
On this washer the seal was replaced ?Did it stop leaking after the seal was put in ? Front load hatch on this is in front area located on the bottom(base).Remove the front to gain access and you can now reach the pump and look for any blockage.After you have found and removed the blockage,run the washer again and if any water leaks remain call your local servicer .You may have a bad front boot (seal) or its just loosened and it need to be re- tightened.Any water leak should be repaired ASAP so you dont have even more damage to the machine and your home.If the repairman cant stop the leak on his first visit than have the Boot replaced on his second visit.
I need some one to tell me how to install the rubber seal on a bosch maxx Eurowasher front loader washing machine. Part of the seal ripped off so water leaks out. Its only 6 months old and its not covered by warranty.