I installed 6 245w pv panel, they are set up in pairs and each pair goes to a separate breaker on the combo box. When I turn on each separate breaker , the #1 pair reads 350 watts, as I ad the second pair it reads 700watts, and as I ad the third pair, it drops to 690watts. Regardless of whit two pairs I combine, wattage drops as I ad the third. It should go up to 1000w when all three pairs are on but it does not. Can someone help, flexmax 80

Your XFINITY remote can be paired with XFINITY X1 TV boxes, allowing you to control the TV box even when it is placed out of sight, such as in an entertainment center or in another room (up to 50 feet away). XFINITY remotes can be identified by the model number on the back panel or within the battery compartment of the remote.

Note: Once your remote is successfully paired with a TV box, it will not control any other TV box until paired with the other TV box. XFINITY remotes can only be paired with one TV box at a time.
To Pair an XFINITY Remote Note: These instructions apply to XR2, XR5 and XR11 model remotes only.Make sure the remote batteries are installed and your TV and TV box are powered on.Set the TV input to the input connected to the TV box.Press the Setup button on your remote until the LED at the top changes from red to green.Press the xfinity button on the remote. The LED will begin flashing green. (Note: When pairing an XR2 or XR5 remote to a DTA, you may need to press the xfinity button up to five times).Follow the instructions by entering the three-digit, on-screen pairing code.
Once the on-screen pairing code is correctly entered, your remote is paired with the TV box. Note: If you do not see on-screen pairing instructions after pressing the xfinity button in step four, press the xfinity button again. You may need to press the xfinity button multiple times if there is more than one TV box in range.
NOTE THE BELOW CODES ARE FOR THE SAMSUNG SMART TV's ONLY
Type in the 4-digit or 5-digit code listed below using the number buttons. Additional codes may be found in the remote manual.
Most likely code
10812
Others to try
11632, 10702, 10060, 11959, 10766, 11903, 11060, 10587, 10329, 10482, 10650, 10814, 10032, 10178, 10030, 10019, 11575, 11597, 10427, 10408, 10217, 10056, 11581 for more info on what device you are trying to pair it with the codes are available here > https://www.xfinity.com/support/remotes/ Just select the Remote and the device and continue and the page will display the most common codes for that Device you are trying to pair it with.

0166 0182 0324 0421. Check these codes. If you wish to get more; check the sites linked here. It has set-up code list & set-up procedure to many popular brand remote controls. See it in "Mosaic" or "Magazine" view. It will make surf easier. Or, do a search by type in the brand name of your device at its search box, and press "Enter".
http://electrohelponline.blogspot.com/ Check this link too. http://remotesearch.blogspot.com/

Joan, In the box where you are placing the switch, you should have three pairs of wires. Each pair should have a black wire and a white wire (plus each pair should have a bare ground wire). One pair of wires goes out to the bedroom entry. Another pair goes out to the closet light. The third pair should be coming from your electric panel and provides the power - this is the hot pair. First determine which pair is the hot pair. If you don't have a meter or tester, you can temporarily connect each pair in turn to a lamp and turn on the power. Repeat until you find the pair coming from the panel. Turn off the power. Now take note of the four screws on the switch. Two of the screws on one side may have a small metal bar connecting the two screws together. With the power off, connect the black hot wire to one of these two screws. If there is no metal bar you will have to use a short jumper wire between two screws on one side of the switch to connect them together. Connect one other black wire to either screw on the other side of the switch. Connect the last black wire to the last screw. (There is also probably a green screw by itself. Connect one of the ground wires to this, and wrap the other two ground wires tightly around the ground wire you connected to the green screw.) Now connect all three white wires together (not to the switch) with a wire nut. Install the switch in the box and turn on the power. Please vote if you found this helpful. Good luck, and be safe, Al K

Attach the same color wires to each other!!

Black to Black

White to White

Make sure ground is connected to back of box and to switch.......

TURN OFF POWER

Very simple: Unhook the wire from the breaker and then pry up at the center of the box... the breaker slips over a blade at the center of the box and tucks under a pair of tabs near where the wire connects.

That is, the breakers tip up from near the center of the box toward the outside.

You can use aa flat screwdriver to go right between the breakers at the center to nudge them up to start... DO NOT put the driver in more than 1/4 inch.

follow the wires to where they enter the breaker cabinet, the ones coming out of a cable will be a pair, red and black or black and white. If you have a volt meter, turn on one set of switches on the breaker and measure the terminals, the one with 230 volts will be the ones to connect that set of wires to

First thing that needs to be done, is to find out which pair of wires go where. Since you had these lights working (somehow), Switch off the breaker or unscrew the fuse that operates these lights. Once the lights are off you can now disconnect all the wires from that switch. Keep all wires separated, and away from ground. You mentioned that you have a equipment ground (green or bare wire). Hopefully this goes back to the panel. With a continuity tester or VOM (make sure it is in OHMS), place one lead on this ground and the other lead on any white wire. if it reads almost zero ohms, then this wire is a neutral wire. If not, it either indicates that you have 2 hots and 2 switchlegs, or you may not have continuity back to the panel on the ground wire. Another approach would be to make sure no one but yourself is in the area. After removing the wires from the switch and isolating them, again making sure no one is in that area, turn the power back on and place the VOM on voltage (Make sure the leads are in the proper locations on the meter) Place one lead on ground and with the other lead touch the individual conductors. The one(s) that reads 120 volt are hot. To make sure you have the proper conductors, unscrew both bulbs, to make sure you are not getting feedback.if you have 2 hots then the mating pair in the able goes to the light fixture. you would need to remove the fin because the fin is for a 3 wire application.

I had a difficult time following your explanation of which wires worked. Therefore I would approach the problem in the following manner. First make sure your electricity is off. Get a voltmeter and determine which pair of wires (one white, one black) go to your ceiling light. You can check continuity from the light socket to the wires in the box on the wall. This will be one side of your circuit on the switch. Then turn the electricity on and determine which pair of wires have electricity flowing to them. Be careful here as you are working with live wires. The remaining pair may run to another outlet and should not have any juice going to them. You may want to check and see if all of your nearby outlets function. If an outlet does not function, you will have to tie these wires together with the ones providing the electricity. Be safe and good luck!

Once you have totally reassembled the oven, then go to the breaker panel and locate the tripped breaker "pair" (it will be a pair, not a single.).
Push the breakers all the way to off, then pull back to on or set.

Let me know if if this doen'st fix it.

Just connect a pair of breakers of the correct amperage. A pair is above and below, not side by side. Breaker boxes alternate left leg, right leg, left leg, right leg the whole way down.