JBL GTO75.2 Car Audio Amplifier Logo
Posted on Oct 21, 2007
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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No audio-amp protect light come on then went

Hi i bought an amp and sub package a few weeks ago and i was testing it out the other day and pumped it a bit and all of sudden the sound wentt there was no bass. so i checkd the amp and the protect light was on. then a few hours later the protect light was on while the power (blue) light was flashing then it stopped flashing. the next morning i had a check and there was no protect light or no power light :S im confused i dont know whats wrong its hooked up right and the wiring is fine (new wiring kit) so i dont know what i could be.help needed plz....

  • 1 more comment 
  • reeder07 Jan 07, 2008

    Hi i have the problem that i have a new wiring kit and amp JBl GTO75.2. But the protect light flashes on and off the power light comes on the the protect light and one of the speakers crackels ,even when the car is turned off. i've checked all the conections .I'm Stuck please Help!!i (Car is bmw 3 series).

  • jblaudio May 21, 2008

    driving down the the road my amp just went off and the protection mode is always on

  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2012

    its caused buy sweating no matter where u put it its always going to sweet all jbl amps do you have a bridge inside your amp that has corroded and broke apart an easy fix mine done the same thing but i took the bridge peace out of an old tv i had for parts i solder it in and it works fine hope it helps u email me for help later

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2 Answers

A

Anonymous

Check your remote wire for poor connection

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  • Master 631 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 22, 2007
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You need to check the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals. You also need to check the DC voltage across the remote and ground terminals. If the voltage is less than 11 volts, you need to check the B+ supply and remote wiring for breaks or open fuses. You should also check the ground connection to confirm that it's not loose.

 

If the voltage is OK, the output transistors are likely shorted.

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I had these 12in pioneer subs so I went and bought the new Rockford Fosgate they came out like a week ago my problem is every time i hook them up to the amp the protection red light turns on can you...

if the amps impedance is higher than the speaker, it will trigger the protection circuits, because the amp sees it as an overload, example the amp has 8 ohm impedance specified, and your speaker has 4 ohm specification, that is a clear overload. Bring the subs back to the amp's dealer and have the amp replaced; the one that matches your subs. Hope this helps... ;-)
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Hi i bought an amp and sub package a few weeks ago and i was testing it out the other day and pumped it a bit and all of sudden the sound wentt there was no bass. so i checkd the amp and the protect light...

IT SOUNDS AS THOUGH THE AMPLIFIER MAY BE DAMAGED AND AS IT WAS DAMAGED, IT CONTINUED TO CHANGE AS IT WAS GOING OUT, HENCE THE DIFFERENT STAGES OF LIGHTS AND SYMPTOMS. WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS TO SIMULATE A BENCHED CONDITION, INDEPENDENT OF YOUR INSTALLATION. REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION AND YOU HAVE VERIFIED THAT THE POSITIVE AND ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALONG WITH THE REMOTE CONNECTIONS ARE 100%, THEN THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. ANOTHER PROBLEM WHICH IS A LITTLE RARE, IS THAT SOMETIMES THE RADIOS REMOTE OUTPUT WILL SAG BELOW 11 VOLTS AND THE AMPLIFIER WILL NOT TURN ON. IF YOU CANNOT MEASURE THE REMOTE LEADS VOLTAGE, SIMPLY DISCONNECT IT AND TEMPORARILY INSTALL A JUMPER BETWEEN THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AND THE REMOTE TERMINAL OF THE AMPLIFIER AND THIS SHOULD FORCE THE AMPLIFIER ON, BUT IF IT DOES NOT, IT WILL DEFINITELY NEED SERVICE, AS YOU HAVE TOTALLY SIMULATED A BENCHED CONDITION THAT IS TOTALLY INDEPENDENT OF YOUR INSTALLATION. ANOTHER NOTE OF CAUTION, IS THAT YOU MAY HAVE EITHER WIRED A TOO LOW IMPEDANCE LOAD OF SPEAKERS TO IT AND CAUSED IT TO FAIL OR EVEN THOUGH IT WAS THE CORRECT IMPEDANCE LOAD, THE SPEAKERS MAY HAVE BEEN DAMAGED AND WHEN THE VOICE-COILS START TO MELT, THEY WILL SOMETIMES TAKE OUT THE AMPLIFIER. SO AT ANY RATE, IF IT IS IN FACT THE AMPLIFIER, MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE SPEAKERS BEFORE REINSTALLING THE AMPLIFIER, AS YOU SURE WOULD NOT WANT TO REPEAT THE PROBLEM. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
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JBL amp, worked fine untill 2 days ago. protection light on..

might have roasted your speakers voice coils a little which may be sending the amp into protect mode throw a speaker on it that you know works and if it doesnt trigger the protect circuit then you probably have a blown or almost sub.
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My amp stays in protection mode

Does it go into protect in the vehicle if you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp?


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Vx4004

More than likely, your speakers are wired up in such a manner that they are creating more resistance than what the amp can handle. That's usually what puts amps into protect mode.

Car speakers should be 8ohm's resistance, but if you're bridging and running a dual voice-coil sub or two subs in series... you could have inadvertedly wired it up so the amp is seeing 4 or 16 ohms of resistance? (depending on which way you went)

Try removing the speaker wire completely, then turn the amp/car on and see if it still goes into protect.
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Where was the smell coming from? The amp or the sub?

Do you have an ohmmeter to check to see if the sub's voice coils are still intact? Can you try driving the subs with another source to verify they are ok? We need to eliminate the variables here.

If the subs are okay then it's obvious that the problem is in the amp. I'm not sure if there are any protection devices internal to the amp, but I am sure if you remove the cover from the amp and if it was amp that was producing the burnt smell, you'll have no trouble visually identifying where the problem is in the amp. Most likely you'll find a part that is discolored or black & burned.

Usually a smell like this from a solid state device indicates a component has been overheated and if run long enough in this condition will fail.

- Jim


- Jim
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It sounds like the output transistors have shorted. This is VERY common. If you want to try to troubleshoot the problem, I'd need to see photos of the inside of the amp. You'll need a multimeter to check the transistors.

Before opening the amp, remove it from the power source.

Since the resolution is severely limited here, send the photos to me directly ([email protected]). If you're going to send multiple photos, please zip them and send one file.
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Check this out: http://www.techlore.com/article/14696/
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