Washer seems to be going through all the cycles properly, however at times the agitator slows down to the speed of a delicate cycle. Spins and drains properly. When it's in slow agitation cycle I can hear slow water drips and the plastic catch basin under the washer has about a half inch of water in it. Any ideas?
SOURCE: Washer won't agitate or spin
The transmission is dead!
It's not worth fixing!
If it's 10 years old or more, better off replacing it with a newer machine which will be much more efficient!
1998????????????
Not worth the money to fix!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Try
You should call service.:
A&E Factory Service
1-800-905-9505
Nation wide / 7days/24 hours
Good work
Please give me a "Solution Solved Rating", in this site!
Thank You
Neil
SOURCE: agitator free spins
Remove the top cap on the agitator and see if the bolt has come loose. If it is not there, the agitator will come loose from the gear case shaft and free spin.
It doesn't agitate
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:
Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch
If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Motor coupler
Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.
Belts
Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
Clutch
If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
Drive motor
Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
Drive pulleys
The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Transmission
The transmission could have either of these problems:
If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
Agitator
The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.
SOURCE: Agitator starts at begining of cycle before washer is full
Please be carful as running the agitator without enough water will overheat and kick out the motor, however it should be ok when it resets itself.
Yes, the machine should stop agitating when you lift the lid so this too is part of the problem.
After looking at the print I can only suggest that the cam contacts in the timer ( contacts 12 and 14) that start the motor are burned and stuck together.
Quentin
SOURCE: My Frigidaire Gallery Model #GLWS1339CS1 will not
It doesn't agitate
If your washer
doesn't agitate, check these:
Lid switch
If the lid
switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all.
The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame.
Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get
to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Motor coupler
Many washers
produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's
plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to
the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If
this happens, you need to completely replace it.
Belts
Many washing
machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to
replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine
belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
Clutch
If your washer
was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch
wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the
clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire
a qualified appliance repair technician.
Drive motor
Many washer
brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction,
for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in
one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need
to replace the entire motor.
Drive pulleys
The motor or
transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so,
replace the pulley.
Transmission
The
transmission could have either of these problems:
Older washers
produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter.
If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate
properly or at all.
The
transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.
If you suspect
a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair
technician to repair it.
Agitator
The inside of
the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip
out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the
transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator
doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator
and/or the transmission spline.
The LF error means Long Fill.
When you start a cycle the water should come into the dispensers. If you have a good flow through the dispenser the valves will be okay.
I recommend checking the inlet water screens on the back of the washer. The inlet screens are located on the water valve. To access the screens you will turn the water off and remove the inlet hoses. The screens prevent debris from entering the valve and sometimes over time mineral deposits build up on the screens. This can block the water or slow the water fills down to a trickle. You can pull the screens out and clean them if necessary. Flush the inlets thoroughly with water when replacing the screens. If debris gets past the screens, it can cause the valves to stick open and an overflow of water can result.
While you have the fill hoses disconnected, place the ends of the hoses in a bucket and briefly turn on the faucets to check for proper water pressure and flow from both hoses.
A common reason for an L F (long fill) error on this washer is the drain hose being stuck to far down the drain standpipe.
If the drain hose is to far down the standpipe then a siphon can occur which causes the washer to fill and drain at the same time. This will cause a long fill error.
73 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×