The way my sump pump ejector is drained, the drain pipe (outside, underground) can easily freeze, causing the sump pump connection to come loose, filling our window well with water, which, in turn leaks into our basement. Are there electrically-heated outdoor drain pipes (near surface)that won't freeze?
IF the drain on the outside of the home is in the ground and is not below the freeze / frost line, it needs to be changed. If the drain is above ground at any point it needs to be unhooked at the point it exits the structure and diverted to the ground with an elbow. A splash diverter would be placed under the elbow.
SOURCE: sump pump drain
Storm sewer or rain water run off area. In other words , almost anywhere where it won't come back in.
SOURCE: water backing up into my basement ejector pump during heavy rain
I have seen this problem several times before. The ejector pump should be in a separate crock in the ground by itself. Someone has installed it in the crock that is meant to pump out drain water. Probably the result of adding a bathroom in the basement. You need to bust another hole in the floor and install a separate crock to solve this problem correctly. If it just started happening go outside and look at he gutters to make sure water is running away from the house and not up against the foundation.
Please rate if this helps-
SOURCE: sump pump float adjustment
This really depends entirely on you. the higher the water level the less frequently it will run. most motors use more power to start than they do to run so starting less should save you money.
SOURCE: Basement up-flush pump will not
1) any pump that fits the opening of the tank will do - get the cheapest.
2) directly down the into the sewer. If you don't want to open the acces port in your house then just rent a longer outflow pipe and dump it on the opening in the street.
3) there is nothing to troubleshoot: the pump has just 3 components - the electric motor, the centrifugal pump and the valve; if the pump isn't working then its motor is defective and you can't fix that.
4) the difference is for what those pumps were designed: sump pumps are just for fluids, ejector ones for water and everything else. Make sure you ask for the correct one or it will clog very fast otherwise.
SOURCE: I pipe (sump pump connection) near the hot water
1) Electric heater, do not touch electric heater that is wet or has been wet unless power is 100% off.
2) Gas heater: Same applies to gas heater if controls are electronic, or if electric is grounded to hot water pipe.
3) Manufactures suggest replacing water heater that has been flooded.
Warranty is voided.
Set next heater higher.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html
4) Electric: You can replace thermostats and elements, but if insulation is wet, the unit could short and be continual electrocution danger >>> and you can't operate electric heater with covers removed because cool air will keep thermostats from reading correct temperature.
5) Gas: You can clean out combustion chamber and replace gas valve and burner assembly, but new heater from local hardware or box store will save time and possibly money.
6) Use old heater as tempering tank if incoming water is cold:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html
Or use old tank as solar collector:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-make-a-solar-water-heater.html
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