Freezer at -25 fridge has warm air blowing in and is at 14 degrees
Ok the freezer should be at 4degrees f and the fridge should be at 37 degrees f...sounds like the compressor electronics need to be replaced
SOURCE: Upper Fridge Too Warm
We had a warm fridge and super cold freezer.....we unplugged for about 20 minutes and the fridge started to cool down again.... but only for a few days then back to warm.
We ended up unplugging and "defrosting" the whole unit for 24+ hours ....Now it works perfectly again.
I think it happens when one or both of the doors is not shut or sealed all the way and engine works too hard and "freezes" up the fans or some other part of the system.......I am just happy I did not have to buy a new fridge.
SOURCE: Freezer not cold enough; fridge OK
Hello cokoliso,
Welcome to Fixya
You said, your Trio won't make ice. Freezer stays at about 25 degrees regardless
of control setting. Fridge maintains 40 degrees at mid setting.
Shouldn't the freezer be close to zero? Is there a way to check the
temperature sensor in the freezer?
To check the temperature you can buy a refrigerator thermometer at the hardware store.
Ask if it can be used in the freezer too!
The fridge sounds slightly to cold and the freezer not enough.
Fist look in your freezer and check if the articles there are full to the max and covering the air vents usually found in the rear of the freezer.If so clear an opening for the freezer to breath.
Refrigerators and freezers usually share the cold air and I've seen this be the problem on many occasions.
If freezer was not I blocking the vents or even full to the max.
Then pull the plug out or if you can not reach the plug, trip the breaker off for 5 minutes and see if this resets the system.BUT do not plug the fridge back in before at least 3 minutes.
Let me know how it goes and send me any questions.
Thank You, Huuum
Please remember to leave a rating .
SOURCE: freezer quit then noticed fridge side not cooling
the relay on your compressor is bad go behind you refrigerator and take off the the bottom panel the relay is on the left side of your compressor usually
SOURCE: whirlpool fridge not cooling gone warm air blowing
more than likely the compressor is not starting, it has a starting device on the left side of the compressor which has a relay/overload called a relay, remove the relay and shake it , if it rattles it has gone bad. the relay/overload combination has gone bad and can be replaced with pro41 relay. if the compressor has a run capacitor just eliminate the capacitor when replacing with new relay. connection of the two wires makes no difference.
SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge
Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
SG
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