Question about Kenmore 4.5 cu. ft. Oasis Canyon Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Oasis water level problems

The machine was overflowing and I found a rub hole in the pressure sensor tube and have ordered a new one. I used first aid tape to seal up the small hole and I recalibrated the pressure sensor thingy. The washing machine now works fine. Almost.

 

On all of the cycles which have 'high' water levels, such as Bulky, Sheets/Towels,  about half way through the wash cycle (28 minutes left), the machine begins to add fresh water, then agitates a bit, recirculates some water, then adds fresh water. This continues and the machine would overflow if I didn't stop it.

 

I plan on installing the new pressure hose next week when it arrives. It's possible that other small holes exist in the hose. If the overfilling continues, does this mean the replacement of the machine/motor control assembly? Other tests or reset computer options?

 

Many thanks in advance. Thanks to whomever posted on another question the link to the service manual for the Whirlpool version.

Posted by Louise Weyel on

  • Louise Weyel Oct 21, 2007

    The rub hole was in the top console area about three inches from the pressure sensor connector. It was at the bend of the hose before it goes downward to the tank connection. Rubbing against wiring harness. Wires not rubbed through.



     



    More info: during the wash phase of a cycle, it begins to add more fresh water. Either :



    1.  It doesn't think there is enough water and so is adding, or



    2. It is supposed to dump the first wash water (all or part), add some more, agitate a while, then totally drain prior to rinse cycle.



     



    When I cancel the job by hitting stop, it drains out about as much water as it 'over added' and thinks that's all.

  • Louise Weyel Oct 28, 2007

    Installed new pressure hose, problems solved! Cost me $9.95 for  a new ose. Recommend that if your machine overflows, don't let a repairperson say you need a new control panel without their checking the hose. I believe my 'rub hole' grew over time, which explains why the smaller loads used so much water. Don't forget to recalibrate the pressure switch. Many thanks to watugot

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  • 290 Answers

Most likely, your tape is not holding the pressure and the machine starts filling because it thinks the water is low. The new hose should fix the problem. If not it will probably mean a new control.

I would also like to know the location of the rub hole on the hose. What was it rubbing against? Thanks/Mike

Posted on Oct 21, 2007

  • Anonymous Oct 21, 2007

    You could try coating your tape with glue or nail polish or anything that will seal it against an air leak.

  • Anonymous Oct 21, 2007

    Thanks for the reply.



    As the machine fills with water, air pressure builds up in the tube which activates a switch in the control. If the pressure hose is slowly losing pressure, it will fill and start the cycle but as the hose loses pressure the switch will change position and the machine thinks it is out of water so it adds more. When you cancel the cycle, it will drain the water until the pressure switch indicates the water is gone. Since your hose is leaking it thinks the water is gone because the pressure is gone. The pressure involved is very small so it doesn't take much change to affect it.

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Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the “Load Level”, “Load Size” or “Water Level”. On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½” off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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1 Answer

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This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

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Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the “Load Level”, “Load Size” or “Water Level”. On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½” off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!

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