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Is this an electric heat sequencer? Klixon themselves are very confidential with their product information, have you tried going thru the manufacturer?
If I understand your question correctly . . .
Here are the wire colors connecting to the heater enclosure:
From the front, on the right side of the heater assembly (wrapped in shiny foil): First, the "working thermostat" (which cycles heat on and off to maintain 155 deg) - red on bottom, gray on top. That gray wire goes over to the right, connecting to either side of little round "overtemp - klixon" sensor, at a double connector (two gray wires). A brown wire goes to other side of klixon sensor.
At rear of heater assy is another klixon sensor and the ends of the heating element itself From L to R: Short black "jumper" wire goes from left connector (Klixon) over to far right connector (on heating element). Long black wire goes 2nd to L, and long red wire goes 2nd to R (again on heater).
On cotton no more then 160f for permapress 140f or knits 130f Older style dryers used a separate klixon for every cycle. Newer models with timers use a single klixon with a heater inside it to make it shut down faster for knits and perma and that is exactly what your dryer uses. It has 4 wires. 2 smaller ones that warm up the klixon and 2 larger ones that carry the heat. If you think the dryer has a heat problem I suggest you clean it up and replace the cycling thermostat. My home movie:
Me working on a dryer with a heat problem just like yours:
On the side of the heat exchanger is a fan Klixon that turns that motor on when the temp exceed 110f on the side of the heater. maybe that thang is going out or your fan motor needs oiling and is cutting out on overload. Next to the fan klixon is usually a limit. Both look the same. The fan klixon will have a marking stamped into the metal such as F-120 the limit will have L-240.
That is the compressor start relay and klixon. This happens most of the time when a unit os several years old due to the contacs on the relay and klixon getting loose from heat which causes more heat and then results in a failure. It can also happen when the compressor itself fails to start due to a failure of the compressor. The Klixon is a tthermal protector that controls a start winding period It heats up and then opens the circuit if the compressor does not start.
You did not mention any symptoms prior to your discovering the burnt electrical module so I am assuming there were none visible inside or out.
It is worth the effort to have this checked out by a qualified repairman. Many times it is as simple as replacing the start realy and klixon (interlocked as an assy when installed) Other than the service call and labor the parts required to attemot repair of this unit are less than $50.00. Once again it is worth an initial attempt at repair if the unit is less than 8 years old.
Is this clicking happening about every three or four minutes? It sounds like the klixon, which is a thermal/current sensing device which is under the electrics cover on the compressor. It is a metalic disc which if the current is too high, or the compressor case temperature too hot, will cause the disc to expand and will move from being convex to concave in shape. As it moves from one to the other, it makes a clicking sound. The usual cause of a cycling klixon is lack of refrigerant in the system which causes the compressor motor to cease which means when it tries to start the current rises too high and the klixon 'pops' which breaks the contact. It cools down, 'pops' again, makes the contact, tries to start, won't because it is seized, current rises, klixon pops out again, and so on. You need to get a qualified refrigeration engineer in to fix it, or if it is an old unit, bin it and buy a new one.
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