Hello there:
It doesn't work at all
1.
No power
Make sure there's power getting to your range, oven or cooktop. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power with a voltmeter. Sometimes
the power cord disconnects or burns at the appliance, if this is the
case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or
replaced.
^ top
Top element doesn't work
1.
Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the
"Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that
the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the
element and the receptacle.
You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might
have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if
found defective.
2.
Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a
defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with
the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found
defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_range_oven.aspx#2-1#ixzz1CZ54wKfT
http://www.appliancepartspros.com
I bought mine an less than a week later 3 of the eyes no longer come on just the front burner.
Model RB7787GYBB switch light on backboard comes on but the front glasstop burner does not come on.
3 out of 4 elements stopped working after 1 1/2 years. All within the same week.
Me too, right front burner doesn't heat, although indicator light does. It quit while it had been on "high" for about 15-20 minutes. Months before, (and not related?) the timer started to freeze on the minute setting from time to time - sometimes it works and sometimes it don't. I have a circuit tester but I'm not qualified on it - but I have an IBM engineer coming to dinner Sunday and I'm going to quiz him on how it works. Please advise any special tricks to getting to the wiring/components. Thanks, Mike Dominguez, Tucson, Arizona
Upper right burnner does not work after two years of used
Is that L1 to L2? Upper right connections looking from the back? I tried and they read open but so do the other 3 that do work. Those wires jumper over to the other switches. One red and one black. The ones that look to be for the burners appear to be L-H1 and L-H2. Based on the insulation used on them. Each burner has different colored wires. For instance the one I'm dealing with is yellow and yellow with a black dash. Could this be correct? I checked them and they read open. The ones on the other 3 read resistance.
Thanks
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