Water dosn't drain properly ( into lg. tank ) and eventually lea

Here is the link to the manual:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/szmanuals/b0348062b23e23cd40550b61e1dc5f43


Here are those particular instructions:

Compressor Indicator

The " " icon will light up on the control panel display when the compressor turns on. The " " icon will turn off when the compressor shuts off.

Emergency Condensate Holding Tank

When the room temperature is low and the indoor humidity is high, the air conditioner may not be able to evaporate some of the moisture fast enough. When this happens, the water will accumulate in an emergency condensate tank inside the unit. Once the emergency condensate tank is full, the unit will automatically shut off and the " " will appear on the control panel display. To empty the condensate tank, unscrew the screw plug at the bottom back of the unit. You will need a small pan, approximately 1" high to catch the water coming out of the condensate tank. Once the condensate tank is drained, the unit will begin working within a few minutes. The emergency condensate tank holds approximate
ly 1.5 Liters of water.

Another option is to purchase a small hose from a hardware store that can fit around the 5/8" drain plug on the back of the unit and drain the unit into a gravity drain or larger pan for continuous drainage.

To resume operation quickly, empty the water container according to the following steps:

1. Turn the unit off. Do not move the unit when the water container is full.

2. Place the drain pan accessory under the drainage port at the back of the unit.

3. Remove the screw plug from the drain hole. The condensate water will drain out automatically. When the drain pan is full, screw the screw plug back onto the drainage hole to stop the water flow. Empty the drain pan. Repeat until all the water is emptied.

Once the water container has been emptied, screw the plug back onto the drain hole. Do not allow the
water to drip continuously into the drain pan, as it might easily overflow.

• require you empty the unit by hand (usually less expensive units). These have either a removable water tank which must be emptied, or have an internal tank and a drain, where you have to empty the water into your own pan. Sometimes the drain is on the bottom of the unit, making it hard to find a pan that will fit under the unit to drain it.
• discharge most of the water through the exhaust hose (usually more expensive units). This is called "Auto-evaporation" or "Self-evaporating" feature.

Most units are made so that they can be drained with a gravity hose that flows to a drain inside or outside your house. But the water must drain down. If the drain is higher than the unit, you may need a condensation pump to move the water upward. A few units do include a pump to send the water a short distance through the drain pipe.

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thanks.

The main problem in water softening units is that people continually use pool salt because it is cheaper. Most find eventually that it is not as it blocks the medium in the tank with sediment and rubbish. You may have to replace the medium in the system and restart the regeneration process Best policy is to use only kiln dried water softener salt It IS different.

If the "black hose" is about 1/2" in diameter it attaches to the drain elbow on the left side of the valve. Use a hose clamp, cut some of the drain line back (about 2") slide it back on the drain elbow and clamp it on the elbow.
If the black hose is 3/8" it attaches to the fitting on the salt tank, which attaches to the float.
If it broke because it is brittle I would go to any water treatment dealer and get a new piece of "brine line" to replace it.
RJ

Problem is not clear.
Is water heater clogged and not draining?
What kind of shut off is normally located down near drain valve on electric water heater?
If you have gas heater, you can normally just rotate knob to pilot to shut off burner.
If you are draining electric water heater, normally you turn off circuit breaker, attach garden hose to drain valve, open drain valve by turning counterclockwise, open TP valve or open bathtub faucet, and then water drains out.

Open following links for illustrations.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-drain-valve.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Hi heeg_mark,

Leaks problem most often occurs when the water tank is not seated properly allowing water to drain out of the tank and into the base. There are alignment pins on the tank that fit into holes in the coffee machine. Make sure this alignment holes are clear of any debris. Coffee beans have been known to make their way into these openings. Please use a flashlight and a small mirror to see down into the alignment holes. You can easily fix this by following the steps below.

1. Please remove the water tank.

2. There is an access opening like a round hole in the base beneath were the tank fits into the machine.

3. Using an absorbent cloth material dry the water through this opening. Please be patient, it can take sometime.

4. Once the water is gone the machine will operate normally again.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Water on floor usually indicates that the tank is leaking and time to replace the whole unit

OK, now I understand. First, on the Reverse Osmosis Membrane Housing Outlet Ports there is only a Check Valve attached to the Permeate (Pure Water) Port, not the Concentrate Port (Drain Water). The Permeate line is what fills the storage tank, so you don't want back pressure from the tank reversing into the membrane filter which could severely damage it. So, there is a high Risk for Sewer Water to Back-flow into the Membrane Filter and Contaminate it as it is discharging water to the sewer drain if there is any noticeable pressure restriction in the drain distribution manifold. Second, this is why "Air-Gap" Faucets are supposed to be used when installing Reverse Osmosis Systems. With an Air-Gap Faucet, there are three (3) attachments for tubing at the base of the faucet, and a small hole drilled out underneath the lever or handle of the faucet. The 1/4" pressurized drain line tube from the RO System attaches to the 1/4" barbed fitting under the faucet base, then a 3/8" drain line tube attaches to the 3/8" barbed fitting. So when the drain water is pumped up to the faucet under pressure, it returns to the sewer line under Gravity, or No Back Pressure. Then, if the plumbing becomes restricted in any way that the RO Unit can't drain into the sewer under gravity feed, the hole drilled in the base of the faucet allows the back pressure to be escaped to the atmosphere, and if necessary drain water out of the hole until the plumbing pressure restriction can be resolved. This eliminates the possibility of a reverse flow pressure situation from occurring. Hope this helps, and you can always visit us online at www.puresafe.com We have filter cartridges for all makes and models of RO Systems, and 1/2 micron filters that no one else in the trade is using at this time. Thanks, Victor

You need to empty the water in the tanks, there are two one is external the other is internal if you do not have the external tank attached do so and with the unit of, then turn the unit on and put it in cool mode and watch for the water to drain if this does not work emty the water from the scre holes with the unit unplugged and drain it outside you will need leverage as it will need a slight tilt to do so. Hope that helps..

Unfortunately the only way to restrict the flow directly would almost certainly cause the machine to malfunction, as the drain pump and valve system is not designed to deal with significant downstream pressure. The only way I can think of would be to install a small tank (a jerrycan or similar may be ideal) that will take a full load's worth of waste water. Connect the tank to the washer, and ensure there is an air-hole/breather at the top. Fit a pipe low down in the tank through a normal (ball-valve type ideally) tap, and open that tap just enough for the new tank to drain slowly into your drain system. (some camping shop type water cans may already be fitted with a tap that may be suitable). The height of the tank would be the only thing you would have to be careful with, as the bottom drain would have to be above the outlet drain pipe, and the top inlet from the washer would have to be below the maximum level permissible (usually described in the leaflet with the washer, normally only a few inches/centimetres above the top of the washer is the maximum recommended, sometimes just below the top of the washer). Get a plumber to check for blockage in the drain line, as the amount of waste water from one of these machines should rarely be too much for a properly functioning drain unless the pipe from the machine to the main drain is too small or blocked, or the main drain is at least partially blocked. If you wish to go with my first idea, then I am more than happy to supply rough drawings of what would be needed, and I would not expect parts to cost too much - only issue would be if you had the space to put a small tank, and that you would have to ensure the tank was empty each time before starting a new load. An alternative solution would be to lead the waste from your washer into a garden water storage tank, checking first if the detergents you use are harmful to plants or the environment generally (many are not and plants sometimes thrive on this sort of water) - you can then water your plants for free and solve the drain issue. Obviously having some sort of garden is a pre-requisite for this, but it could be a good solution if this is the case. Please check local environmental regulations before discharging anything about which you are unsure, as fines can be quite steep. I believe a plumber should be your first port of call to check the drains.