Changed temp control made sure timer is working also made sure bulb works by installing in fridge when unit runs coils also freeze then going into defrost cycle unit gets really warm
SOURCE: Freezer Not Fan not running!
Most all commercial freezers have some sort of fan delay/ defrost termination device. Commonly called a "Klixon" (pronounced clicks-on). It is a device that is attached to the evap. It's function is to terminate the defrost cycle when the evap reaches a certain temp, say about 50 degrees or so, to ensure there is no build up of frost/ ice on the evap. It then allows the compressor to run, and cool the evap down to a reasonable temp., say about 20 degrees, and then let the evap fan come on. It prevents overloading the compressor during a high temp condition, and it also prevents circulating warm air left from the defrost cycle. I believe this device is most likely your problem. With no air circulating, the box will no cool down.. I have seen them burn and/or slhort internally. They can come apart. too. I would look here for that problem. the True manufacturing website does not give alot of info on this piece of equipment, such as a wiring diagram but manuals are available.
Check this out and let me know how it comes out.
SOURCE: We have a true T49F freezer and the evaporator
Freezers have a sensor that is referred to as a "Fan Delay/Defrost Terminator". It senses the temp during the defrost cycle. Usually, when the evap temp reaches about 50 degrees, there should not be any frost or ice on it. This device terminates the defrost cycle. It also keeps the fans off so warm air is not circulated. When the evap gets to about 20 degress or so, the sensor switches on the evap fans. If the fans are not coming on, either the sensor is bad or the evap is not reaching the proper temp to cause the sensor to turn on the fans.
Hope is helps to clear up some things and point you in a direction as to what might be going on.
Hi Susan Abboud - Modern freezers have increased storage capacity and keep more even temperature that may require the compressors to run longer but use less energy. Was the unit disconnected previously for any reason? If so, freezer requires a minimum of 4 hours to cold down completely. Confirm that the temperature control is not set too cold and that the door is not being open frequently. A dirty, cracked, worn or poorly fitted door gasket can allow warm air to enter the unit causing it to have to run longer to remove the warm air. Leaks in the door seal will cause freezer to run longer in order to maintain desired temperature. Cleaned the gasket, if it is too damage then it will need to be replace. You can check and see if the door seal is bad by, placing a dollar between the gasket and cabinet. Check to see if the door is being blocked by anything stopping it from closing properly. If nothing is stopping the door then replace gasket. Keep in mind that there should also be at least 4-6 in of air space on all sides of the unit. If freezer is built in or has items stored on top that cover the unit, the can cause long run times, high temperature in the freezer and premature failure to the unit. Do not block the toe grille on the lower front of the unit. Sufficient air circulation is essential for the properly operation of your freezer, about 3 inches around the unit.
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