Ive been repairing car amps for awhile. This one is a doozer. Clearly one power trans is blown burn marks etc. Tested resistors around and one is bad so I ll change all. But there is the grey burnish looking color around and under the yellow transformer looking thing at T303 on the board. How do I test this and what is the part number?
You should get the schematic for it. I can tell if your reference to trans is for transistor or transformer. If you mean transistor, in that power circuit they are most likely http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Siliconix/IRFZ44PBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvARmQSk64rFx%252biHG2Aqv9T. See if you can see any references to the parts on the board. One of the others that fails often is: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=4kLU8WoGk0vGgdnitUP0Eg%3d%3d and
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=4kLU8WoGk0vWou9qAZ%252bg5w%3d%3d
This ebay item looks identical to it
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SOURCE: 250/1 powers on but no output
If the amp is not going into protect, the power supply FETs have probably failed. In the corner of the amp near the toriodal transformer, there are 4 FETs against the heatsink. When these fail, the 47 ohm resistors at the base of the transistors often fail. If the resistors are dark, it generally means the FETs have failed. If you disconnect the amp from power and measure the resistance from leg 1 to leg 2 of the power supply FETs, a reading of near 0 ohms indicates the FETs have failed.
SOURCE: Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio
There are no fuses inside the amp.
Are any of the lights lighting up on the amp?
If so, which ones?
SOURCE: I want to know if
I hate to be the barer of bad news but no I do not believe it is possible to do that and you will probably fry both amps if you attempt it.
But you can connect three subs to one of them
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When I say trans I meant power transistor. Yes I know I have a bad one and I know the part. The problem is it didnt just go bad. The Inductor shorted which made it go bad. The inductor IE the yellow looking thing is clearly burnt on the inside. The diodes are bad around it. JL does not ever ever release schematics. I was wondering if you know a part number of the yellow inductor on the power side of the amp. 250/1 JL
What style is that coil that failed?
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=...
Yeah I appreciate your help but this inductor above is what is the cause of all the other components shorting. There is no part number at all.
It is an 8 pin inductor.
It looks like a choke transformer inductor. But not 100 percent sure on that
That link wont work because of sharing issues on FB most likely. Share it on fotobucket or skydrive.
Im using linux so I cant. There are three yellow 8 pin transformers/inductors on the board. Its the one on the power side isolated by itself. Theyre wrapped in yellow tape. In the power circuit they run right before the power transistors. IRFZ44N--Right before these. I dont understand why youre having a hard time located it, its huge. T 303 on the board is right above the left corner of it if youre looking at the board with the power ground remote terminals facing you
Looks almost identical to this....http://www.ebay.com/itm/30x-8-PIN-BALUN-...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30x-8-PIN-BALUN-...
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