14 k turns over but will not stay running,shows under power signal fault

Since you did not state that any circuits other than the power windows were affected, it is highly unlikely that a main fuse under the hood has blown.

The panel you're looking for is on the left side kick panel under the dash and should have a cover on it.

The link below will show you exactly where it is.
Scroll down a little to the diagram which shows the brake pedal and the fuse assignments immediately under that image.
The power windows fuse is number 15 and is a 30A.

-Steve




fuel pump fuse location 1995 2002 Mazda Millenia

Not the flasher. It's the turn signal switch that has shorted.

do a meter test on the battery test it with no lights on and no engine running should show 12.5volts. now do the same with engine running should be around 13-14 volts on idle if under 12 volts when engine is running or spikes in power were by keeps jumping up and down on the volts then the alienator is at fault. if all is fine. then you will need to check the earth's one under the battery. check them are good and clean. then there is the light switch and fuse you need to check them. look at the fuse if intacted. test it and at same time flick the fuse see if it stays good. failing all them and nothing wrong there must be a fault with the main line some were and that is going to take some finding. could be any were from the main fuse to each light unit.

Wiring problem. Get an Auto Electrician.....It's a minor fault.

Sorry no idea as to what these codes mean ,try looking on the internet for the codes .on universal codes they indicate cam sensor and O2 sensor ,as this is a 92 then its nots that technically advanced to be difficult to repair

You need the engine computer scanned for fault codes, i thank you have an ignition control problem like a module or distributor pickup coil issue. These parts whenthey fail should leave fault cdes so get them read.
Next, the check engine light will pause shortly followed by the second digit of the trouble code. For example if the check engine light blinks once and pauses followed by six blinks the trouble code number would be 16. If no code is present the check engine light will stay one constantly. To restart code gathering turn the ignition key to the "off" position, wait three minutes and turn the ignition key back "on" again without starting the engine. Remove the jumper wire once code gathering is complete. To clear code after the repairs have been made remove the negative battery cable for one minute and reconnect.

Toyota Diagnostic Connector
Toyota Code Definition Table
Code 11 Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU (electronic control unit or computer) up to 1991
Code 12 Engine revolution signal missing Code 13 Rpm signal to ecu missing above 1000 rpm
Code 14 Igniter signal to ecu missing
Code 16 A/T control signal missing from ecu
Code 21 Main oxygen sensor signal fault
Code 22 Water temperature sensor circuit fault
Code 23 and 24 Intake air temperature signal fault
Code 25 Air/fuel ratio LEAN
Code 26 Air/fuel ratio RICH
Code 27 Sub-oxygen sensor signal or heater circuit fault
Code 28 No. 2 oxygen sensor/heater signal fault
Code 31 and 32 Air flow meter circuit or Vacuum sensor signal fault Code 34 and 36 Turbo-charging pressure signal fault
Code 35 Altitude compensation sensor signal fault
Code 41 Throttle position circuit fault
Code 42 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
Code 43 No starter signal to the ecu
Code 51 AC signal on; DL contact off (in transmission shifter with diagnostic connector jumped)
Code 52, 53 and 55 Knock sensor fault Code 71 EGR system malfunction
Code 72 Fuel cut solenoid signal fault
Code 78 Fuel pump control signal fault
Code 81, 83, 84 and 85 TCM communication fault

Ya, when the car is running, you're using power from the alternator. So it will show 14 volts as long as its running. The fact that it won't hold the charge means the battery is shot and you probably need a new one

Check fuse # 12 and 14 at the power distribution center (fuse box) in the engine compartment near the battery. If both fuses test good, the the more likely cause of your problem is either the turn signal / hazard switch or the Combination Flasher / Daytime Running Light module. This module is located on the junction block, behind the left side of the dash.

The switch can be tested by accessing the wires at the base of the steering column.
Left turn signal = Light Blue / White
Right turn signal = Light Blue / Yellow
Hazard flasher = Dark Blue / Pink

These wire should show ground when the switch is actuated in its respective positions. If ground is not present when the switch is actuated, check also the black wire at the switch. This wire should show ground at all times. If you do not get ground on this wire than there is an open in this wire. Repair or re-grounding this wire should solve your problem. If the switch test good than the Combo Flasher / DRL module will need to be replaced.

If your charging system is working, you can disconnect the battery while it's running, and it will stay running. The stator assembly (Like a car alternator) will supply the current to keep the bike running along with charging the battery. A multi-meter should show around 12.5 volts at the battery with the engine off, and just under 14 volts running, under normal working conditions.

hi, better check the TCV (timing control valve) located below the injection pump.