6 year old washing machine. It starts the wash cycle fine but on the rinse cycle no water comes in. At that point, the machine keeps spinning as if water is coming in but none comes in. The countdown clock stops and doesn't change. After a while, the IE code comes on. Water is obviously coming in (the wash cycle works fine). I have checked the filters and hoses. Because the water is coming in during the WASH cycle, doesn't that mean the water valve and solenoids are working? Is this a computer board problem (somehow the rinse cycle is no longer triggering the water valve to open)? Is there a way to re-boot or do further checks?
You need to change the twin water valve
Can you expand on your answer please.
The water valve seems to work - the wash cycle is allowing water in, for example.
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SOURCE: Washing machine not filling with water not washing but will empty and will spin
like the anchor idea?, no sorry, this does sound like the water is not getting to the machine, so, when you turn the machine on does it make a slight buzzing noise, if so the fault is no water in the pipes to the machine (from the house), if no buzzing check the solenoids with a multimeter for open circuit (removing the 2 wires first) oh and the plug obviously / replace solenoid if needed, i am sure this will cure your problem, if so rate me please, thank you
SOURCE: spinning cycle
Keeping in mind that the soap & bleach gets dispensed into your wash on the
second to last rinse cycle and that most all rinse cycles are in cold
water. Is your cold water valve screen plugged causing your washer to
rinse poorly? Are you using the HE detergent? If not maybe the
washer is sudsing up to much and having a hard time rinsing all the
suds and bleach out and leaving the clothes soapy.
Fill the washer up with no clothes in it on a cold/cold wash setting
does it take a long time to fill the washer up? Also when it is full
and agitating is there suds in the washer?
Last suggestion is if the drain is hose is a lot higher than the top of
the washer it might have a hard time draining out all of the soap
water before the next load
SOURCE: Kenmore HE4T washer won't rinse. Valves open to
An HF Code is a Water Inlet Problem- No or Insufficient Water Supply.
Press Pause/Cancel twice to cancel the cycle. Then, unplug the washer.
Run down the list again:
Make sure faucets are completely turned on.
Make sure the fill vavles (screens where water enter machine) aren't clogged.
Make sure the hoses aren't kinked, etc.
Plug the machine back in. Try another cycle. If the problem still occurs, You may need to replace your Water Fill Valve. Let me know if you need any further assistance.
SOURCE: TROMM WASHER WM2277HW LG. GET IE ERROR AT BEGINNING OF WASH CYCLE
That noise means it is blocked. Did you get the filters in the back of the machine at the inlets? I've been through heck with this.... check out what finally worked.
IE= Inlet Error. I have struggled with this problem. After much trial and error it appears that it is due to my well water. People who have city water will probably not have this problem with this machine. Well water or hard water buyers beware. This machine is VERY much a primadonna princess capable of stopping your rinse cycle at the slightest imperfections. This is the Princess and the Pea of Washers... but I have a series of possible solutions that will have you appreciating her primadonna superiority once again.
Troubleshooting... Listen.... Does she sound like she is struggling and no water is coming in? If so then it isn't. The cycles will last forever as she makes all sorts of grunting noises. Something is preventing the water from coming in. It could also be that the pressure in to the washer is under 55 psi.
a. I have adjusted the pressure in the pumphouse to allow for minor fluctuations so that the machine will have at least 55 psi.
b. Take off the hot and cold inlet hose and clean the screen at the back of the washer. The two screens are supposed to come out of the male receptacles. They are fragile... beware. I use a squirt bottle/atomizer to clean these screens as mine chipped and will not budge.
c. You can add a screen just off the faucets so that you don't have to move the machine each and every time you get an IE error. This helps but does not solve.
d. I installed a faucet filter that I bought from Home Depot in the PVC sprinkler's section. They are made of a black plastic material and can easily cross thread, so be careful. They look about the size of a one liter container and unscrew midway to reveal a removable cylindrical mesh filter. This makes it possible to widen the surface area where tiny particles can be trapped without totally blocking flow to the inlet sensor. :-) When installing this make sure to completely rinse the hoses, and all screens coming into the machine. I took the shortcut first and thought my idea had failed only to discover that the screen behind the washer was partially blocked.
e. Periodically remove the filter and clean. Depending on the quality of your water, you may need to do this at all the points that have a screen.
I now have a screen washer between the sprinkler system filter and hose and the one that comes installed inside the male ends of the inlets for the water hoses. This has helped enormously.
f. Another possible offender is the soap and softener dispenser. To remove and clean press down on the plastic toggle piece on the soap side, the whole drawer should slide off and clean. Non-HE detergents and softeners can create a buildup of gooey gunk. Just clean it. Inside the drawer space you can clean to increase flow. I use baby wipes.
g. Make sure that the filter on the bottom is free from obstructions. If there is water in the drum, you will be flooded if you remove. This is a last resort after all the inlet lines have been cleaned and cleared.
Note: It doesn't take much to lower the flow of water to the point that this machine will not run. Since you cannot override the computer on it to run a spin cycle or even advance to remove water it can be highly frustrating. I've learned to obey my machine and just clear every last possible inlet.
Best of luck.
SOURCE: I have a kenmore elite H3 washer. The cold water
Check the inlet valve solenoid wires for resistance with an ohms meter. The cold and hot solenoids should have close to the same resistance. My washer had a weak solenoid causing the hot water valve to close after 4 or 5 seconds. While checking the solenoid wires for resistance with the ohms meter, I noticed the cold side had 51 ohms but the hot side only 8 ohms. Hope this helps.
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there is two parts to this cold valve one is for wash the other is for rinse
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