MONITOR DEAD NOT POWER ON

It could be that the power supply is no longer working and a bad power supply. Or your computer has died on you.

FIRST WE DO NORMAL AND LATER TRUE CAUSE.
gee that is normal on all monitors and by Energy Star laws too.
the monitor if the PC is dead or in speed mode, shuts of in 15 to 90 seconds, all do, every one. the monitor has self sleep, all do. everyone ever made did. even back to CRT days.


and the OSD button goes dead after. that. too. fooling the untrained.
here is the first tests, NO PC connected at all
power on see power light glow correct color
then see Viewsonic splash screen push the menu button now. quickly, if button dead hold it for 10 to 15 second to reverse the button lock now, see OSD works.

if you test the monitor on a good PC not in sleep mode the but working PC, your monitor is ok.

this monitor is very very old, 2004?
it has CCFL back lamps not LED<
and all fully used CCFL lamps are now no good, used 8yrs a day at 5years are no good. that is why we use LED back lamps now.
this is what they do: all do , used fully.
1: goEs dead forever, (vast did)
2: INTERMITTANT . (BINGO YOU ) OR INVERTER DEAD.
3: DIM BULBS (like me. lol)
4 TURN YELLOW FOR WHITE screens.
5: STROBEs. (FLASHes)

AND A VERY EXPENSIVE SURE, THAT. AND LABOR.

Look for the power button/switch on the monitor

Swap the cables between the PC and the monitor. Does the fault stay with the monitor or switch to the PC? If it switches, your power lead is dead (possibly a blown fuse). If it stays, your monitor is probably dead.

Turn it off.
Disconnect the AC power.
Reconnect the AC power.
Turn it on.
It should light-up the "power" lamp, very briefly.
If not, then it really is "dead", which means that it will be cheaper to REPLACE than to REPAIR.

WELL GEE WIZE THE OLD MONITORS CCLF LAMPS ARE DEAD
IF THE OSD MENU BUTTON FAILS EVEN NO XBOX THERE
IF AT POWER ON MON, UNDER 15 SECONDS COUNT
THE OSD MENU KEY IS DEAD THE MONITOR IS BAD
IF MONITOR FAILS ON A REAL; pc IT IS DEAD. OR 2ND PC.
IF FLASH LIGHT POINTED TO LCD SHOWS DATA THE CCLF ARE DEAD. AS ALL ARE NOW. RIP JUNK GRADE OLD CCLF MONITORS. 20,000 HOURS AND KAPUT.
IF GOOD IS ONLY
1280 x 1024 JUNK AGAIN GRADE.
OR WRONG MONITOR POWER PACK OR BAD. OR WEAK

That cap is for the Primary power supply switching circuits. How is the DC secondary side, no blown fuse, shorted transistors in the inverter circuits? Pictures will help, [email protected]
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://www.badcaps.net
It may have the same bd as DELL since BenQ makes monitors for DELL and HP.

try to turn it on the power switch on monitor.....and make sure all connection are ok

If the LCD has an internal power supply, then the inverter circuit should be on the board as the power supply. If the power supply is external, then the inverter circuit will have it own board.

What is the output of the Inverter circuit? It should have 12VDC going in, but around 50VAC going to the CCFL bulbs.

The "no led" should be a sign. Your getting voltage, but what about current? It still can be the power supply. All LCD monitors should have a "soft switch", or software driven switch to turn the CCFL lamps on and off.

It is hard to find literature on LCD repair, experience is the best teacher on this subject. This might take several emails or postings to help find the answer.

LCD monitors are a computer. You can break them into several parts, Power, I/O, and processing. Power is the easiest to trouble-shoot and repair. Processing is the hardest.

I fixed one LCD monitor by re-seating the software EEPROM. The process could not do its job if it can not read the software EEPROM.

If one of your IC's is shorted, you can always tell using a can of air. Get one of those cans of air and tip it upside down and spray the entire board until it all turns white. Now apply power to the system. If an IC is shorted, it generates more heat than anything else. It will be the first to loose the white condensation. Don't worry this is safe, done it several times.