most likely you will have to remove the louvers or trim above the cooking cavity to get to the fuse, look for screws holding the trim/louvers on, if no screws are apparent, the piece may slide to the left or right and pop off.
Unplug your microwave. Although it might seem like no electrical current could possibly be running through your appliance, it could still have stored electrical current somewhere in the system. Be safe rather than sorry and unplug it before you begin.
Find the wiring diagram for your model of GE microwave. You can contact GE directly to get this if you cannot locate your owner's manual. Note the fuse locations and get a screwdriver. Some GE fuses are located under the louvers, while others are located in the door.
Open up the microwave and locate the blown fuse. Sometimes you cannot determine a blown fuse by visual inspection so check it with a multimeter for continuity across the terminals.
Replace the blown fuse. Go to your local hardware store and pick up a matching fuse. Make sure you check the model numbers of the fuse as well to be sure you get the right component. Install the new fuse and put everything back together.
Check the continuity of the circuit if you continue to have power problems. If you have a problem with continuity in the circuit, then you may have a bigger problem than just a blown fuse. Sometimes a power surge will fry a GE microwave's circuit board, which you will need to replace.
Most likely
causes are an open thermal protector or thermal fuse but could also be blown
fuse in HV area of microwave (somewhat uncommon in domestic microwaves).
Less likely causes are failure of other parts in
the HV area.
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage
transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but
the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already
blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started.
There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light,
and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown,
there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are
somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no
heat:
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would
probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow
the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens -
might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
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