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Hi,i think the inner touch pad of the LCD screen is bad and it needs to be replaced,here is a detailed guide to help you disassemble your LG arena;
Tools required: Phillips screwdriver, mobile phone opening tool, plastic tool such as a guitar plectrum or credit card, double sided tape. STEP 1Remove your back cover, battery, sim, memory card etc. Remove the four circled screws.
Run your mobile phone opening tool around the join of the front and back of the phone. Start at the top and then pull the phone apart when you can get enough of a grip. STEP 3 A ribbon connector (circled) needs to be disconnected. It attaches like a plug and socket. Just lever this up to unplug. Next, peel the blue sticker off. STEP 4The circled ribbon connector needs to be disconnected. Just flick the black latch up and pull the orange ribbon away from the circuit board. STEP 5Pull the circuit board towards you. A little force is required but be careful as a cable is still connected to the board and you don't want to damage it. STEP 6on the left is a connector that disconnected when you pulled the circuit board towards you. Remove the screw, in the upper right corner. Disconnect the two ribbons beside the camera. Each attaches like a plug and socket. Just lever each one up to unplug. Lever up the white wire above the battery slot . Remove the blue sticky tape above the white wire. STEP 7Lift away the part above the camera. The ribbon connector needs to be disconnected. Just flick the black latch up and pull the orange ribbon away from the circuit board. STEP 8Pull the circuit board away from the phone. Note that the connectors,disconnect when you remove the circuit board. Lever up the wire at the base of the phone. Remove the 2 screws at the edges of the base . Peel back the silver sticker STEP 9Use your mobile phone opening tool to lever up the metal part bounding the screen . It's stuck down with double sided tape so using a hairdryer to heat the part may make it easier to remove STEP 10Slide something like the edge of a credit card or guitar plectrum under the right edge of the touch screen. Again, this part is held down with double sided tape which may be easier to remove if you heat it up a little first. You should replace the double sided tape when you put the phone back together. STEP 11Lift the touch screen from right to left. STEP 12Lever the two long stoppers out and then use the recesses as levering points to lift the screen out. STEP 13You should now have the LCD screen removed. Reverse the whole procedure for reassembly. The screen costs only 39USD. Thanks and take care
there is a broken solder joint where it is on the pc board.it is not the earbud itself,because when you pull it out,both sides work.the jack has 3 sections,the tip which is one side,the next piece,which is the other side,and the shank piece which is the ground.the ground connects to the outside ring of the headphone jack.there are 2 contact points inside for the two channels.what happens is the copper foil of the pc board fractures where the pins are soldered.scrape away some of the foil so that copper is exposed for the pins,and resolder it and it will work if you wiggle the jack,you will see the whole piece of circuit board move where it is cracked.after fixing it,put epoxy over the area to make it stronger.
The jack in itself is quite robust, it is the soldering to the board that sometimes lack substance, also rough usage in the way of forcing the plug in and pulling it out roughly contributes to the demise of the soldering. If the jack is still intact take it to a repair shop and if the pads haven't broken away from the printed cirsuit board have them reflow and maybe add a bit of extra solder to the joints.
Bad filters on the main board or a bad AUX REMOTE jack on the back of the unit (also part of the main board) re the cause of this problem.
Try plugging in any jack that will fit into the AUX REMOTE jack on the back and then pulling it back out. This may fix the problem or remove any dust that may have collected in the jack. If this jack has something plugged into it (or goes bad) the TV will no longer have remote control operation (because it thinks an external remote box is being used). If this does not work then the main board will need replaced.
Note, many repair techs will think the IR board is bad (the Infra-Red Receiver board) at the front of the TV, but this is usually not the case with this model.
The problem with repairing it yourself is that this is a surface mount connector. The solder pads are so small, it would be very difficult to solder with a standard soldering iron. Most likely you would apply too much solder and short out the connector. You really need to use a surface mount soldering/desoldering device and that can be fairly expensive. I have done this before but I have access to the right equipment.
Also, there is a possiblility that the printed circuit board tracks have been pulled up off the main board. If that has happened, there's a lot more work involved in fixing that. You might have to put in a different type of power jack and run wires from it to the main board.
If you're going to try to salvage the USB connector, I would remove it completely and install a new one. Over time, these connectors wear out, so you're better off removing the old one and putting a new one in. Again, this all depends upon whether the tracks on the board have been damaged or not.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.
You also have to know how to take apart the Nuvi.
Yes, the front RCA jacks on the Sony sets always seem to crack loose. I have seen that many, many times. To get to those jacks, you will have to remove the back of the TV and carefully pull out the main chassis, taking care not to pull out any wires or jacks. When the main chassis slides back, there is a smaller board in front of the main board, and the pushbuttons and RCA jacks are on that smaller board. The connectors to that board usually come off when you slide the main chassis back, so you will need to put those jacks back in place when reassembling. Slide the smaller board back, flip it over and resolder the connections on the RCA jacks. Sometimes I find that the copper trace to the center pin of the video (yellow) RCA jack is broken, so test for continuity and solder a small jumper wire to take the place of the cracked copper trace if necessary. Reassembnle the set and your jacks should be working fine.
Yes, there are relay type switches associated with those outputs. Your RX-V1 is not dying.
Just plug a pin plug in and out of the dead channel to bump the switch. You will hear the speaker
come on. If it doesn't come on,do the plug jack in an out of the pre out again. It will come on.
You can use the test tone to check all channels and rebalance volume levels. You are making the
pre out connect to its power amp. It seems the problem got better when activating those switches. Most likely a cleaning issue. You can also jump the mains and center, and there is also
a modification to jump all channels. I bought my RX-V1 very cheap because of this and love it.
Of course outboard power amp would solve all, but getting this reciever to connect to it's own
power amp has been thrilling as far as bang for the buck. I do use the front effects also, and like
them. It may seem like a pain, but it is worth it to get those channels going.