How to adjust brakes

If you're experiencing issues with your MF cracker's shoe breaks, there are a few steps you can take to address the problem and improve their grip. Here are some steps you can take:

Check the brake pads: The first thing you should do is inspect the brake pads. Make sure they are in good condition and not worn out. If the pads are damaged or worn out, replace them with new ones.
Adjust the brake tension: The tension on the shoe breaks may need to be adjusted to provide better grip. You can do this by adjusting the brake rod or cable. Consult your tractor manual to learn how to properly adjust the brake tension on your MF260.
Clean the brake drum: Over time, brake dust and debris can accumulate on the brake drum, reducing the shoe breaks' grip. You can clean the drum with a brake cleaner to remove any buildup that may be causing the problem.
Replace the brake drum: If the brake drum is damaged or excessively worn, it may need to be replaced. A worn or damaged drum will reduce the shoe breaks' grip, even if the pads are in good condition.
Use the brakes properly: Proper use of the brakes can also help improve their grip. Avoid applying the brakes suddenly or using them excessively, as this can cause them to overheat and reduce their effectiveness.
By following these steps, you can improve the grip of the shoe breaks on your MF cracker, making it safer and more efficient to operate.

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Like this or pretty close.

1. Cock brake while expanding chain brake binder by pulling brake handle towards left-hand (wrap-around) handle grip, hard, until it locks in place.



2. Loosen 2 brake-asssembly-and- bar retaining nuts but do not remove yet.



3. Unscrew (turn CCW) bar adjustment screw on front face of unit in order to shorten bar and slacken saw chain.



4. Slip chain off bar over bar tip and towards inward side of bar.



5. Remove two nuts loosened in step 2 and pull brake assembly and bar straight out and off bar mounting studs.



6. While rotating clutch/brake-drum, maneuver saw chain off sprocket and around drum perimeter to remove from saw.



7. Repeat/reverse steps 6 thru 1 in that order to reassemble.

There is usually an adjustment screw on the side of the brake handle, which reduces or increases the tension. Because I don't know the brand, I can't tell you which way to turn the screw

Wind you barrel adjuster out a bit by screwing the knob on the brake handle out. Then screw the little ring Back up to the brake handle.

Have you been working on handle bars like putting on new grips there is a switch on front brake it migt be out of adjustment Look to see if both elements are lite on tail light MOPAR KENNY Hope i could help

There are adjusters on the brake cables that are designed to solve this problem. The cables for the brakes run inside a flexible housing. When you squeeze the handle, the cable should engage the brake. The problem is that the cables inside the housing stretch over time and do not work as well. There is a threaded adjuster at the handle where the housing of the cable goes into the handle. If you turn this adjuster counterclockwise it will, in effect, make the housing longer and the brake cable tighter (shorter). This should engage the brakes better. It make take some trial and error, turning the threaded adjusters clockwise and counter-clockwise to get the proper setting for your strength and comfort. Hope this helps.

If the screw is all the way tight and still slipping ... try to find a fatter part of the handle bar to mount the grip to. You will probably will not find any such that is convenient for you to continue to use the brake ... remove the grip, wrap some electrical tape around the handle bar, reattach the grip. Tighten it and give it a try.

I hope this works for you

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I did no find assembly instructions specific to this model.  From what I see in pictures and descriptions it looks like a standard caliper brake on the front wheel.  The knob/plug on the cable should fit into a groove and hole on the brake lever if the cable is slack enough to make the connection.  You may have to loosen the cable tension nuts at the caliper and at the brake handle (labeled 1 & 2 in the instructions) to get enough slack.
Generic instructions are at: http://www.huffy.com/resources/pdfs/multispeed_manual.pdf
See pages 21-23 for instructions about adjusting the brakes.  You will have to do this after making the connection and it shows the various cable tension nuts that you can use to get enough slack in the cable to connect it.  If you loosen the cable tension nuts (1&2) enough you should be able to remove the cable from the slot through the housing, expose the attachment slot in the brake handle by pressing it against the handlebar, insert the knob/plug into the hole and then work the cable back into the slot in the housing.  Tighten up the tension nuts and make the final adjustments as described in the instructions.

If you loosen the wire that is connected to the gripping machanism first , you will have long enough wire to put it throu the brake grip first then tighten it back at the wheel gripping area.