DLC 7 pro

Sounds like the Motor's Start Capacitor needs replacing. It gives the motor a big jolt of power to get it running.

Cuisinart DFP-14BCN Capacitor Replacement - iFixit

https://www.ifixit.com > Guide > Cuisinart+DFP-14BCN...

The Cuisinart DFP-14BCN has two capacitors, so these steps may be ... Unplug your food processor before starting any disassembly. ... +7 more badges ...

cuisinart food processor replacement parts - Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com > cuisinart-food-processor-re...

Results 1 - 48 of 717 - Amazon.com: cuisinart food processor replacement parts. ... Cuisinart Work Bowl for 14-Cup Food Processors (DLC-7, DFP-14).

Food Processor Replacement Parts & Accessories - Cuisinart

https://www.cuisinart.com > ... > Parts & Accessories

Purchase authorized Cuisinart® replacement parts and accessories for Food Processor Replacement Parts direct ... Discontinued 7 Cup Food Processor (DLC-5).
Missing: capacitor ‎' Must include: capacitor

Cuisinart DFP-14BCN Capacitor Replacement - InfoCon.org

https://infocon.org > skills > iFixit > Cuisinart DFP...

PDF Replacing your faulty capacitor will bring power back to your motor, allowing the blades to spin. The. Cuisinart DFP-14BCN has two capacitors, ...
9 pages

Cuisinart DLC-7 & DFP-14 Parts - KitchenWorksInc

https://www.kitchenworksinc.com > cuisinart-dlc-7-dfp-...

Replacement parts for the DLC-7 & DFP-14 model food processors.

Manuals can be found here:
Food Processors Product Manuals Cuisinart com

You'll have to look around at the options and pick one that looks like the one you have.

If you have an older one, the handle for the bowl generally goes in front, and check the base to see if the button that gets pushed down when the top is in locked position is in the front or the back... and try to match that. The DLC-10s has it in the front (7 cup machine), but many of the larger machines have it in the back. The feed tube matches up with the button when you put the lid on. If you put the lid on with the feed tube 180 degrees off, you can break the lid/bowl getting them apart again.

Getting this right is the most important thing... otherwise they just kind of work. The link for the 7-cup Pro Classic Food Processor (DLC-10s) has really good technique information with color photos. It's worth grabbing regardless of the machine you have.

http://www.cuisinart.com/share/pdf/manuals/dlc-10s.pdf

Other manuals have other recipes... so you might want to download more than one manual.

The main important thing if you have an older style machine is to make sure when putting it together that the feed tube from the top aligns with the part of the bowl with the spring, so the button on the base gets depressed correctly. For some, the spring mechanism is on the front with the handle, for some it is opposite the handle... check the base for the tiny button to double check.

If you put the top on backwards it won't work (at least not correctly) -- but what's worse is that you are likely to break the locking mechanism when trying to get it apart... either on the lid, or the bowl, or both. It can be an expensive mistake.

Luckily, bowls and lids are available from Cuisinart... and many times the same bowl/lid was used for different machine numbers (the various models are about the base, not the bowls/lids/blades/etc.)

The DLC-7 SuperPro is awesome -- very powerfull. Be aware they are 1.5 horsepower; the blade can take your hand completely off in a blink of an eye. Because of the potential danger, SAFEGUARDS are in place such that everything must be aligned and in correct position or it WILL NOT POWER-UP. So, yes, is very likely the safety switch.

Simple test: Use just the BASE, (no work bucket, no top, no blades), such that if it starts, only the spindle will turn. There is a little black button on the base, just back of the spindle. Use a chop-stick to depress it. Plug-in, press the button w/chop-stik, press the PULSE button. It should power up.

Presuming it powered up okay, the "problem" is probably in how the unit is assembled; such that the button is depressed properly.
1. The work bowl must be all the way down on the base, and the alignment column in the back, work bowl base skirt turned to the "Hard Stop". It will feel very solid when docked properly.
2. The top inserts and rotates into and snaps into position while pressing the plunger into the button.

It all sounds too easy, but if something is just a little off, the plunger doesn't plunge ind the power doesn't go on.

These are FABULOUS machines -- spend the time into getting it working. The near- equivalent if something this robust and powerful in today's products will cost nearly a THOUSAND dollars - seriously.

The video is generic, and may actually show a different model with completely different assembly instructions. For the DLC-8S and DFP-11 series, you want work bowl handle facing the front of the processor, feed tube on lid facing back of the processor, and sliding lock switch facing the front of the machine. For the DLC-2011, you want work bowl handle facing front, lid lined up with work bowl handle, and metal element hanging from pusher facing front.

To make sure the motor is working first, remove the work bowl, blade, etc. completely from the base of the food processor. Plug the base in and turn the food processor on. Then use a pen to press in the dark gray or black button on top of the processor - if it makes a sound, your motor is good. If it doesn't, call Cuisinart and get your processor repaired.

Good luck!

-Tha Mp3 Doctor

You can test the motor by plugging the food processor in, pressing the on switch and using a pen to press the dark grey or black button on top of the base of the food processor. As long as it spins, the motor is definitely good. Next, unplug the food processor. For the food processor to work, you need to have the work bowl, lid, and pusher sleeve all inserted - if one part of the work bowl is not attached, then the food processor will not spin the blade. Once all three pieces have been inserted, plug it in and turn it on. If the blade is still not spinning, then there is a problem with the element that runs from the back of the pusher sleeve down through the work bowl that triggers the motor button. In that event, you can go to Cuisinart's website and order a new bowl, lid, and/or pusher sleeve - if you see any obvious damage to one part, you can order just that one part. If it is not apparent which part is damaged, order the whole work bowl. Make sure you enter your exact model# at Cuisinart's website, because a DLC-7 is not the same as a DLC-7E or 7P, for instance. The work bowl parts are expensive, so I would just write down the part numbers from Cuisinart's website and find them cheaper elsewhere. There is also a video on the website that shows you how to use the food processors - the first part of the video describes work bowl assembly. Once you get this food processor working, it is going to last forever. Have fun!

-Tha Mp3 Doctor

Unfortunately the CHM models no longer have replacement parts. If the workbowl parts says something like DLC-7 or DLC-10, then you can call Cuisinart and get replacement parts. CHM models would require finding somthing on eBay.

On the DLC 7 Pro cuisinart the blade was removed by removing
the plastic bottom. Make sure the unit is unplugged. Remove the four rubber pads on the bottom. This was the hardest part because the pads are glued so securely that the inner rubber surface tears as it's removed. I used two flat blade screwdrivers and worked carefully, back and forth. Using a #2 philips, remove the four screws. Place the unit on its side and while inserting a screwdriver between a spoke and the motor frame gently turn the blade counter clockwise. Be careful not to put pressure against the cooling fins. Very little pressure was needed and the blade came right out. I might have been able to hold the shaft from turning without removing the bottom, by going through the vent slots in the bottom, but I was concerned with cracking the plastic. To replace the rubber pads I matched the design of the torn rubber pad with the shape (design) of the surface glued rubber and used thin two-sided tape.

If you try the instructions below, and the motor test fails, you can send it in to Cuisinart for a trade-in, but the trade-in will be just as expensive as getting a new food processor (unless your product has an extra-long motor warranty):

You can test the motor by plugging the food processor in, pressing the on switch and using a pen to press the dark grey or black button on top of the base of the food processor. As long as it spins, the motor is definitely good. Next, unplug the food processor. For the food processor to work, you need to have the work bowl, lid, and pusher sleeve all inserted - if one part of the work bowl is not attached, then the food processor will not spin the blade. Once all three pieces have been inserted, plug it in and turn it on. If the blade is still not spinning, then there is a problem with the element that runs from the back of the pusher sleeve down through the work bowl that triggers the motor button. In that event, you can go to Cuisinart's website and order a new bowl, lid, and/or pusher sleeve - if you see any obvious damage to one part, you can order just that one part. If it is not apparent which part is damaged, order the whole work bowl. Make sure you enter your exact model# at Cuisinart's website, because a DLC-7 is not the same as a DLC-7E or 7P, for instance. The work bowl parts are expensive, so I would just write down the part numbers from Cuisinart's website and find them cheaper elsewhere. There is also a video on the website that shows you how to use the food processors - the first part of the video describes work bowl assembly. Once you get this food processor working, it is going to last forever. Have fun!

-Tha Mp3 Doctor