Help with Thermostat Wire Connection

With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.

If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.

If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,

Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.

Hope this helps.

is there a battery in in thermostat if so replace it

I had a roofer install Master Flow PRO 3 and he did the initial wiring incorrectly. The black wire pairs were incorrectly connected and caused the fan to run 24-hours. I switched the black wires pairings and the fan shuts off if less than 100-degrees (the setting I chose) and comes on if more than 100-degrees. You may want to be sure that the black wire from the power source is connected to the black wire for the thermostat (black wire nearest the thermostat setting switch and closest to the power source wire). The black wire from the fan motor should be connected to the black wire closest to the fan motor's wire.

The green wire is the ground, just like the bare wire. Attach black to black, white to white, and green to bare.

Unfortunately I have no access to any previous information you received from other experts, but I will tell you that without knowing which ceiling assembly/control box, thermostat etc., that you are using, the most I can do is tell you this.
Blue wire is for the compressor circuit.
Black wire is for high fan .
Yellow wire is not used, unless for heat pump circuit reversing valve.
Red wire is for low fan.
White is the common AC connection.
Green/yellow striped is for ground to chassis.

The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

Sounds like it could be a bad capacitor (black box on side of motor).

It sounds like you are replacing a two speed motor with a single speed. Check the side of the old motor and see if it has high and low speed wiring schematics. If so you need to replace with same model number. Good luck!

Red= power........White=heat.............Green=fan.................(grey)-(yellow)=cool .....these are the connectons. Disconnect these wires from the thermostat and know that red/power is the only wire that send power to the thermostat, and the rest sends it back to the unit to call for whatever,, red--to . white for heat... red to green for fan .... &red to grey for cool! OK! Turn all your power on, and use a jumper wire from red / green for fan and see if the fan comes on! Then move the jumper wire from red to green , to red / to white for heat and the fan , wait for 3 minutes before removing and going to the next step. Then red /to grey for cool and check if the outside comes on. Either you have a wire touching past the insulations and making a connection, a bad thermostat ,oe excessive wire lead touching the next connection.Thank you very much!

Hi
The pull switch has 4 wires, L, 1, 2, 3.
Connect ' L' to the reverse switch red wire or the wire that is free.
Connect ' 3 ' to the main black ( hot ) wire entering the fan.
Connect ' 1 ' to the capacitor's lowest uF eg. ( 1.5 uF )
Connect ' 2 ' to the capacitor's next uF eg. ( 3 uF )
the Capaciotr also has to be connected to the neutral wire entering the fan, usually black attached to another color wire. If you have a VOM tester, veryfy that it is a neutral wire.
Regards
H. Montero