Question about Kenmore 91112 / 91114 / 91117 Electric Kitchen Range

5 Answers

Error code F3 on Kenmore 911.4658815 electric range

I get a F3 error code when we try to use the oven self clean function.  After the oven heats up for about 10 minutes, it will beep and give the F3 code.

 

Any idea what needs to be replaced?

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  • 7 more comments 
  • jamesduca Nov 04, 2007

    I get an f3 code on a frigidaire self cleaning range Model # FEF352BAWA. I see a few different f 3 codes in this forum, and I assume each manufacturers codes are different/

  • Anonymous Nov 11, 2007

    Thankyou for posting this problem. The F3 code just starting happening to our oven and with the holidays coming up I need a working oven. Hope it's not too hard to replace the sensor.

  • erinl Mar 02, 2008

    E1 F3... what is that

  • a_r_marshall Oct 31, 2008

    I have this same problem. I ordered the sensor and replaced it; however I still get the same f3 error message.

  • smorny Dec 08, 2008

    thanks for this solutions, i try it and it works !!
    my girlfrend was very happy and i am now her hero !!!
    thanks to you again

    Sylvain

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    F3 has come up on the clock screen and now the oven doesn't work. I have unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet for 5 minutes and that did not solve the problem

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    oven door will not unlock

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    door will not unlock

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    When the button is touched, nothing happens, no beep, no lights. Nothing. I looked at the manual and followed the instruction with no success.

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INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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Fridgetech is right. It's the temperature sensor. I had the same problem, but I was getting the F3 and F2 errors when attempting to preheat the oven.
A R Marshall said that he replaced the sensor but he still got the same F3 error. That happened to me too! It worked for a few weeks, then it began to malfunction again. It finally started showing preheated as soon as the oven was turned on, but never heated at all. One night at 3AM, the error code and beeper went off while we were sleeping! That happened on several occasions at various times of day, and it was necessary to kill the power to stop it. The power could then be restored and the error would stop.
Ours is a Hotpoint range (made by GE). It's my understanding that most ranges have the same or similar error codes.
The sensor was $85.00 at the parts store, but I got it on line for about $60.00 including shipping. The instructions said to strip the wires and then twist them together with wire nuts. But the new sensor had a plug that fit so I used it, and it worked for a short while.
As I looked through the problems and possible solutions, someone said look for burnt wires. So I opened it up and looked but there was nothing like that. Then I remembered the instructions that said to hard wire, so I examined the plug which seemed to have one short wire inside. I plugged it back in and tested with the same negative results. Now suspecting the plug I cut off both sides, stripped the wires and hard wired using two small wire nuts. It immediatly began working normally!
Something is wrong with the plug connector.
Try cutting out the plug and hard wiring before ordering a new part. But if you need a new part, eliminate the plug!
May God bless you and keep you safe!

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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Amen to hardwiring the connection first..I'm a repair tech and more times than not, that's all it takes to fix it. If that doesn't work, then look into the probe itself or the control. BUT FIRST MAKE SURE THE WIRES FROM THE PROBE TO THE CONTROL ARE IN GOOD SHAPE. A shorted wire to the chasis can give a false reading also causing this problem.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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I found myself in the same situation with an F3 error. After reading your solutions and testing on my side, I found out that it was only the upper element that blew-out (litteraly). Change it and fixed my problem. Thanks

Posted on Apr 19, 2011

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The oven temp. sensor has gone bad.  Replace it and that will solve your problem.  The part # is WB21X5301 and cost is $73.49.  Can purchase at http://www3.sears.com/.  You can view the image at http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0124160&brandID=0582&modelDesc=Free%20Standing%2C%20Electric&modelNumber=9114658815&documentID=00053545&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=BODY%20SECTION&titleID=00002&.  It is inside the oven in the upper right or left hand corner.  Should be able to remove from the inside.  Two phillips screws and pull it out harness also.  Plug new one into harness and put screws back in and you are done.

Posted on Oct 17, 2007

  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 17, 2007

    Also, on the image it is # 253.

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1 Answer

F3 beeping in self cleaning mode


Hello Jane, thank you for allowing me to assist you!

If you are getting an error code F3, it is commonly referred to a faulty sensor probe or a wiring harness between the sensor probe and EOC (electronic oven control). You may try and reset your range by disconnecting the power or by flipping the circuit breaker off and back on after 10 minutes. This often clears most false error code. If the error code does not clear, most likely the EOC on the range will need replacing. I am fairly confident that an authorized service agent will be able to restore your appliance to its normal operating condition. You can often locate a qualified service technician on the manufacturer website.

Nov 17, 2013 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.
4 Digit Failure Codes
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

on Apr 24, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.


4 Digit Failure Codes

F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective

Two digit codes:

F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure

Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:

F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction

F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error

F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.

If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

Regards.

on Mar 27, 2010 | KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave...

1 Answer

I'm getting a code... e2 -F3-


About all you can do is to cut the power to the oven either by circuit breaker or unplugging the oven. You will need to do this when replacing the part anyway.

Dec 01, 2012 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My frigerdaire oven heats for a while about 15-30 minutes then shuts down with a beeping noise and a f3 code.


Good Afternoon Friend,

I see that your Frigidaire double oven heats up for about 15-30 minutes, then shuts down and begins beeping while showing an F3error code. The F3 states that the oven is sensing a potential runaway temperature. This is possibly a sensor issue or it could be a false error code.

I suggest giving your double oven a hard reset by cutting the power at the circuit breaker for at least 2-3 minutes.

After restoring power you will need to reset the clock. You will do this by entering in the time and pressing start.

Let the oven heat up, and if you are still receiving an F3 error code, I suggest either contacting the manufacturer or contacting your local authorized technician to diagnose your appliance. Hope this helps.

-Best Regards-
WP

Jan 27, 2012 | Frigidaire 30 in. Electric Gallery Series...

1 Answer

We are using self clean feature. continuous beep about 20 minutes into cleaning screen shows F# locked door and beeps nonstop. what can we do to stop beeping but still proced with self cleaning?


F3 is a bad oven temp sensor. The sensor fail F3 code will appear if during self clean that it senses temps above 915F, or there is an open / short in the temp sensor. The only thing you can do is replace the sensor. Just getting the oven door open can be a real pain as you have unlatch the oven door lock to get to the screws that are in the top lip above the oven door so that you can change the sensor. Depending on model you may have to reach through a burner to manually unlatch the oven door lock or remove the side panel of the oven to manually unlatch the door lock. On most units It will not continue to self clean with an F3 code detected. Once an F3 code is detected the ERC shuts off power to the bake and broil elements so that it does not catch fire from a run away temperature condition.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Nov 25, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Amana Self-cleaning Oven flashes F2 and F3 and beeps. It doesn't get real hot. Although it does heat up not the appropriate temperature.


Hi, F2 error code on the Amana Oven means "Oven too hot" You have to replace Oven temperature sensor to fix it.
F3 error code means "Open or shorted oven temperature sensor". Yo also have to replace Oven temperature sensor to fix it.

Summarily, both code has to do with the temperature sensor which you need to replace...

Oct 23, 2010 | Amana Ovens

1 Answer

I am getting a F-10 then it beeps


F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)

Aug 08, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

F2 and F3 error messages on Tappan wall oven model 12-4980 10/03


These are the F2/F3 error codes for a Tappan oven
F2 Oven too hot Check Bake function, if OK, replace oven temperature sensor F3 Oven temperature sensor open Check oven temperature sensor, should be ~1100 ohms at room temperature. If too high or low, replace oven temperature sensor
please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating.

clarkco

Feb 09, 2009 | Tappan Ovens

2 Answers

Problem codes for self-cleaning ranges


My experience (Kenmore Ultra-bake Model 665-72002102) was that E1 F5 meant an error with the oven lock switch. In our case, the latch was partly stuck from food or other debris. Just moving the latch back and forth loosened the scale that was making it stick, and it worked again.

Dec 05, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges

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