Looking on how to clean out the bottom of the pressure switch system located on the tub?

Hi Andrew.

Parts that may be responsible for the problem and that must be inspected or tested are drain system, pressure switch, pump and control panel.

Troubleshooting will start from the drain system.

The drain filter connected to the pump is the first part to be checked. With Bosch Axxis the drain filter access is located in the front side at the bottom. In recent models you need to remove the trim panel at the base and you find the access cap. Older Bosch have a door in a corner. Behind the cover or panel you find a cap that can be released turning anticlockwise. Before starting disconnect power and keep a container ready to collect a good amount of water.

The drain hose at the back must also be checked to make sure that there is no blockage and that the hose height is set according to manual for the specific model. If the hose is set incorrectly the water will flow back from the drain hose into the tub, drain will not end and the machine will not advance to spin.

After checking the drain system inspect the pressure switch. The pressure switch is the device that detects the water level, when the switch is faulty the machine often does not drain or spin. The switch is located in the control assembly, near to the timer. To access the switch the machine must be partially disassembled. The pressure switch looks like a plastic disk with three or four electrical connectors. The switch is connected to a long thin rubber hose that extends inside the tub. Before replacing the switch try cleaning the rubber hose and the switch nozzle. Excess of detergent may clog the switch, causing malfunction that often affect the drain and spin part of the cycle. The switch is not an expensive part and it is difficult to test. The switch is tested reading Ohms ( or Volts) at its terminals with tub full and empty. Testing must be done by a trained technician. If cleaning the rubber hose does not do the job I suggest replacing the switch.

If the drain system and pressure switch are fine the next step usually consists in checking pump and eventually replacing the control module if pump and all the rest mentioned above are OK. Before replacement the module should be tested reading volts during cycle or checking test points in service manual.

If the machine is a built in model it must be moved out from its housing. The instruction to mount or remove machine from housing are illustrated either in the owners manual or in the installation manual provided with the owners manual.

Checkup of the drain filter and drain hose are operations that can be performed by the user. Cleaning the pressure switch hose is not a difficult operation, but requires partial disassembling and must still be performed by a technician. Testing of pressure pump and control panel should be definitively done by a technician.The parts that fail more often when there is no drain or spin are drain system or pressure switch. If the machine is running through the cycle and there is no error code the problem is unlikely pump or control panel.

Start performing the user level operation detailed at start of my comment. Remember to disconnect power before performing any maintenance operation. If you need to call a technician ring the number listed on the owner manual.

Regards.

Ginko

Hi.

If the machine does not drain you usually have drain blockage. Clean the drain well at the bottom of the tub. remove and clean filter and assembly parts. Make sure that the drain hose at the back of the dishwasher is not kinked.

Several Miele dishwasher uses a pressure switch to determine the water level. A defective pressure switch may prevent the machine from starting.
If this model uses a pressure switch, the switch will be located in the drain line. When a pressure switch is defective the machine should return an error code. Here a picture of the pressure switch:



If that does not fix the problem the pump located under the bottom panel must be tested.

Regards.

Ginko

Hi.

The problem is either caused by a drain system fault or by a defective pressure switch.

Check that height and setting of drain hose at the back are correct. If the hose is not set correctly (check manual), then water will flow back inside the appliance. The problem is called siphoning.

Make sure there is no drain system blockage. Inefficient drain because of blockage results in soaked water. Check hose connected to pump located at the base of the washer.

Check and eventually replace the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when to stop the spin part of the cycle. The pressure switch is located in control assembly, near to control module. Clean the long rubber hose connected to the switch.

Inside the control assembly look also for an envelope containing the tech sheet. The document will contain the instructions to run diagnostic cycle in this model. Run a diagnostic cycle.

Regards.

Ginko

Hi.

Start checking the drain hose at the back, and the hose attached to the drain pump, located at the bottom of the appliance. After that access the control panel and clean the hose attached to the pressure switch. Also check the lid is closing well. Those are the only easy fixes.

The first parts to check are door latch and drain system.

The timer performs an additional check on the door latch before advancing to spin. The door switch it is tested by jumping its contacts, or by reading impedance to check if the switch is opening and closing the circuit (you will need a multimeter).

About the drain system, if the machine does not drain, then the cycle will not advance to spin.

The electronic control checks the input from pressure switch (which detects water level) before advancing to spin part of the cycle. If there is a drain problem, then the machine will not spin.


The first step will be accessing the drain pump.


Kenmore top loaders' washer pump is accessed from the bottom side of the appliance. Get ready to collect the water that will come from inside the tub.

Check also the drain hose at the back. Ensure that the height of the hose elbow is respecting the specifications indicated in manual. A wrongly placed hose will result in water going in the washer drain pump and tub, causing drain problems and no spin.

If lid switch and drain lines are OK, replace the pressure switch, which is difficult to test (it is tested reading impedance with tub full and empty. Before replacing the switch, you can try cleaning it and blowing into the switch pipe. Check also motor before replacing the switch. The switch is connected to a long rubber hose and it is located in the control panel.

Below an article about the no spin problem. If the problem is coming with no drain, check drain filter, drain hose at the back. If they are OK, the pressure switch may need to be replaced or the pump may be defective.

Here the general troubleshooting for no spin: If you have no spin there may be different reasons behind the problem.

Enter full model number here (the one written on tag) to get all parts and diagrams for your washer.

Regards.

Ginko.

Hello there
The Water System temperature sensor is normally what is wrong with these units with this condition that you are experiencing
The water system consists of the hot and cold water inlet valves, a water temperature sensor, a water
flowmeter and control and the dispenser distribution system along with a traditional pressure switch.
Water Inlet Valves -
The hot and cold water inlet valves are located at the back of the washer. These valves receive a control
signal from the Central Control Unit to manage the temperature of incoming water. The temperatures
are determined by the specific wash cycle selected and a temperature sensor located in the wash tub.
To improve cleaning of heavily soiled clothing and to provide a sanitizing feature, the water temperature
can be increased through the use of a heating element located in the bottom of the tub

"F20" is called a No Water Detect error code. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r1491905-f20_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

This error code can be a tricky one to diagnose as there are several causes. In your case, however, you obviously don't have a water problem, or a drain problem. I think the problem is your pressure switch. The pressure switch is what shuts off the water source at the appropriate level. If it malfunctions, the washer will continue to fill to the point of overfilling. You should never have water above the glass as you described.

You can access the pressure switch by removing the top panel of the washer. The top panel comes off by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off. The pressure switch will be located in the rear on the right hand side (as viewed from the front) along the interior cabinet wall. It is round, has some electrical connections and should also have a small plastic air hose attached to it.

Before assuming the pressure switch to be defective, trace the air hose to the bottom of the wash tub and ensure it is still connected. This hose is how the pressure switch detects the water level through pressure change in the tub as the water fills. If the air hose is disconnected or clogged, you can experience the same symptoms. You will need to remove the lower kick panel directly below the door inorder to see the bottom of the wash tub. Remove the panel by locating the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. The pressure switch air hose will attach to the lower right hand side of the wash tub.

If the air hose is attached at the wash tub, carefully disconnect it from the pressure switch and blow air through it. You should hear air bubbling through the residual water in the wash tub if it is not clogged. If it is clogged, carefully remove it and clean.

After verifying the air hose, you will need to refer to the troubleshooting index of your tech sheet for tips on how to properly troubleshoot and/or adjust the pressure switch. The tech sheet is located inside the washer behind the lower kick panel, or affixed to the inside of one of the interior cabinet walls. I do not have the pin numbers or measurements memorized. If the switch proves bad, replace it. If the switch is good, it may be the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main computer of the washer that controls all functions.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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The pressure chamber is located under the machine at the rear and will need to be removed from the tub to be cleaned.(you never stated which model you have) so I can only assume it is a split tub type. If in doubt locate the switch by removing the lid of the machine and it is (a round object about 3” across with wires on one side and a small bore air hose underneath).Follow the hose down to the pressure chamber.

If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

Easy fix. Do this: Remove the rubber tube coming from the bottom of the tub up to the water level switch right there at the switch itself. Blow through it to remove the sediment in the bottom of the tub so that air pressure from tub to switch will be kosher. Put the hose back on the water level switch tight and pump out any water in the machine.
Retry





If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I had the same problem and went out to a website for Maytag washers. That website advised that the problem could be mechanical or electrical. In my case, the problem was a clogged tube and it took only ten or fifteen minutes to fix.
0. Unplug the machine.
1. Open up the front of the washer. Along the left hand side is a long transparent tube. The tube connects to a wallet size container on the side and near the bottom of the tub.
2. Inspect the transparent tube. It may be clogged where the tube meets the wallet sided container.
Note: When the tub is full, it creates pressure in that wallet size compartment which sends air up that tube to a pressure switch located within the panel at the top of the washer. The pressure switch flips and tells the machine - stop filling the tub with water. My machine had a visible clog in the bottom of the tube that carries the air from the bottom of the tub up to the pressure switch.
3. Disconnect the tube and clean. I used a pipecleaner to get most of the mold out. To completely clear the tube, remove the top panel and disconnect the tube from the pressure switch in the top panel and blow air down the tube.
4. Reconnect, test - and you should be good to go. If not, your pressure switch may be dead.