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Where is it leaking from? Around the edges of the cover?
You may need to make a new gasket for it.
Drain oil by remove lower bolts and slightly prying on cover so fluid starts draining.
Slowly make your way up to the top bolts until it's completely empty.
Remove cover, clean old gasket off housing and cover.
Attain gasket maker from any auto store, and spread a even amount around edge of housing, where the cover and housing touch..
Replace cover, fill with oil, and see if this stops the leaking. If not, you may have just rusted out the cover, after years of wear and rust (depending on the year of the vehicle) and may need to simply replace the cover.
Only major problem is it would be leaking from the side or where the drive shaft enters the housing, which would require new seals, and a bit more work!
First shut off power then remove acess cover and carefully move insulation out of the way so you can see around elements.Check to see if leak is coming from around element.If it is determine what type of element you have. Either screw in or bolted in. Both have thick rubber gaskets that can be replaced by draing water heater and removing element then install new gasket and reinstall element.
To drain heater shut off valve on incoming cold water supply line ,make sure electric power is off. Connect drain hose to drain valve and put other end to floor drain or sump basin.You can open faucet on hot side near by to prevent vacumn and drain. If you have screw in type disconnect wires,marking them for reattachment,then use large open end wrench or pipe wrench on hex section of element and turn to left to remove. If you have bolt in element spray bolts with wd-40 or similar and carefully loosen bolts then disconnect wires and remove element.install new gasket and reverse to reinstall. I would recommend that you replace elements at this time if you are sure this was the source of the leak.
If you don't think it's leaking around elements then check fitting on both water lines to water heater to be sure they are not leaking and seeping down thru insulation and leaking out of the bottom of heater. Next check around drain valve for leak and if it's leaking you can try tightening it a little or replace it with 3/4 x2 brass nipple and 3/4 inch female iron pipe boiler drain. Use teflon tape or pipe joint compound on all threaded connections.
After you have eliminated all other sources for leak then it is probably the tank itself. If it is less then six years old the tank should still be covered under warrenty. Most warrenties will give you a new heater but installation will not be covered unless you have extended service coverage.
I hope this helps you some. Thank you
Are you sure that it is leaking from the bottom and not around drain connection or mounting flange at bottom of sink. If it leaking around drain line you can try tightening hex head bolt that hold drain line to disposal. Also if that is where it's leaking and you cant stop it you can get a replacement gasket from hardware store. If it's leaking around mounting flange you can try tightening three slot headed bolts and see if that helps. There is also a gasket that fits between tiangular shaped mounting flange and bottom of sink that is replaceable. If it is actually leaking from the bottom of disposal then you will need to replace the disposal. hope this helps. Thanks
If you have a pan drain plug, drain the pan. If not, remove all bolts around it's perimeter, leaving two on one edge loose but not removed. Use a large catch pan or I've seen some people use a garbage pail cover over a smaller pan with holes drilled in the center of the cover so it drains. Remove the filter, making note of the position of the filter and screw length (if any screws are longer or shorter they must go back in the same holes) Remove ALL gasket material from the pan and rail, clean the pan and magnet. Reverse process to assemble. Pan bolt torque is around 14 inch pounds. You don't need a torque wrench if you use a 1/4 inch ratchet and do not pull down hard when tightening. DO NOT crush the gasket so tight it bulges out. Install all bolts by hand before tightening, tighten in a cross pattern, not around in a circle. Re fill with the proper fluid, run the engine till warm, check level, check for leaks. Make a short test drive, re-check level and again for leaks. If any leaks, tighten the bolt closest to the leak and also the two on either side of that one.
drain out hte old oil, Remove oil pan bolts, remove old oil pan gasket, install new gasket, install oil pan, tighten oil pan bolts to 17 ft. lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN as this will distort the gasket and cause another leak.
Spray it off at the car wash to remove all the oil , then spray Right Guard (Yes, that Right Guard) on the area of the leak. It will show up, but you may not be able to see exactly where. There are a couple spots where it can leak. The jackshaft oil seal, as you said, transmission output shaft (clutch shaft) on the trans itself, the inner primary seal where the trans shaft runs thru, the engine sprocket shaft oil seal, inner primary O-ring, the bolts that hold the inner primary to the engine/trans, the primary chaincase gasket and the drain plug. Hopefully when you get it apart, you will see which seal is leaking. If not, replace them all. Still want to fix the leak? LOL
Open the lower kick panel and inspect for the source of the leak. If you feel water or see rusty or soapy residue around the tub bolts that hold the tub halves together, remove the cabinet top and tighten all the bolts around the tub. The bolts should be snug when tightening. If the bolts are ok, feel all around the outside of the tub for holes or cracks. Good luck!