Suspect there is dirt in the cold water side of solenoid. Won't stop running. Need to remove back of washer so I can get new one. How do you remove back. A diagram of parts and numbers would be very helpful. Were can I download one.

bad solenoid on water valve on the washer,will have to replace washer water valve.sometimes if sediment gets into the valve the washer will fill on it's own because dirt got into it and the valve can't fully close and the only way to stop it is shut down the house water going to the washer,also there's an electric solenoid on the valve one for hot and the other for cold,if it stops when there's no power it sounds like the solenoid is bad and not closing the valve but from what you say you have to change out the washer water valve,open the door,look around the opening where you put the clothes in and you'll see a tag with the model number,you need this to order the valve,shut the house water valve off going to the washer,unplug the washer,remove the top to the washer,mark the hoses before you remove them so they go back on the same way because one is for hot and the other for cold,disconnect the hoses to the valve,remove the screws and then install the new one the same way.hope this helps and good luck

if it fails to stop running only at the rinse part of the cycle it is probably in the timer as the solenoid valve has to cut the water off when the washer fills for the wash cycle too. fills for wash cycle and cuts off water, washes and drains, refills for rinse cycle and water just keeps running? does this every time you run it? that's in the timer. bad solenoid (water inlet valve) would keep running even on wash fill up. hope this helps.

G'day. The hoses from your laundry taps hook up to your machine onto what are called solenoids. These are like electrical taps. The machine decides when to turn these on and off and in what order via the timer and depending on what modes are selected. Generally there is a hot and cold solenoid. If you have both hot and cold hooked up to your machine, you can simply swap these hoses around (put the hot tape on the cold solenoid and vis-versa) Then when you select cold, you'll actually be getting hot. Some new machines heat water internally like dishwashers, and they only have one solenoid. Again if you put the hot tape only on, you will get hot water with cold selected. In both solutions you are losing the option for cold or hot cycles with a click of a button - now you must swop hoses...

Are you meaning the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve??????

If yes .... you need to know if your W/P Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer really has a bad Water Inlet Solenoid Valve for the Hot and Cold water. This valve is where the Hot and Cold water hoses connect to the rear of your washer on the upper top left side in the rear as you are facing the washer. In my opinion it is highly unlikely that your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is bad....but it is possible. Sometimes the filter screen in the inlet(s) of the Hot & Cold water valve can be stopped up with dirt, sediments, etc. If you turn off the water faucets and remove the Hot & Cold water hoses from the washing machine... you will be able to see the screens...if they are stopped up you can remove them with a small screw driver and clean them and reinstall them.

Hook up your hoses and turn on your water supply Hot and Cold faucets.

Here is a quick test procedure that you can do to verify the operation of the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve.

Verify that your water hoses are hooked up and the water faucets (Hot & Cold) are turned on.

Unplug the washer's 120Volt AC power supply cord from the electrical plug on the wall.

(1) Remove the top cover...There will be three screws on rear area of the cover: Left - Middle -Right.
(2) Once the top cover is removed...you will be able to see the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve...just follow the Hot & Cold water hoses from the wall to your washer. Usually the water inlet solenoid has a blue plastic housing assembly with (2) separate push-on or pull-off quick disconnect electrical connectors. One connector pair provides 120volt AC to the Hot water solenoid and the other connector pair provides the 120volt AC to the Cold water solenoid.
(3) Remove the push on or pull off quick disconnect electrical connector to one of the water inlet solenoids..It does not matter which one at this point in time.
(4) You will need an electrical 120v AC Test Cord. You can make this from an old lamp AC power cord or and old 120v AC Extension Cord. You will need two alligator test jumpers or leads (Radio Shack has them). The end of the test cord that plugs into wall is not to be modified. The other end of the test cord will have to be modified in order to conduct this testing. Strip back the insulation to reveal the two leads that will carry the 120v AC power. You should have one black lead (120v AC HOT) and one white lead (120v AC Neutral). Connect (1) alligator test lead to the black lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary and connect (1) alligator test lead to the white lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary You now have your 120v AC Test Cord ready. If you have a VOM test meter..you can connect the VOM meter to the two remaining alligator test leads. Have your VOM test meter set for AC Volts and on a scale that will measure 120v AC. Plug in your test cord to the 120V AC wall power. If everything is OK your meter should read approximately 120 Volts AC.

(5) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from the wall power.

(6) Connect your 120v AC Test Cord to your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve electrical terminals.
See Step (3).

(7) Plug your 120v AC Test Cord into wall power. If the water solenoid valve is good you should hear water surging thru the water solenoid valve. If you do not hear the water running thru the valve you can verify if the 120v AC is getting to the valve with your VOM. It should read 120v AC. If it does read 120Volts AC at the terminals of the valve and you do not hear the water then the valve is probably defective: Either stuck shut and won't open or the solenoid coil is open (Bad).

(8) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from wall power.

(9) Disconnect your (2) alligator test leads from the solenoid valve and re-install the electrical push on connectors that was disconnected in Step (3)

(10) You can now repeat this test on the other side of the Water Solenoid Valve (See Step 3).

(11) If both sides of the Water Solenoid Valve check out good...then your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good. If it does not check out then replace it.

(12) If your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good...then ....unfortunately, there is a good chance that the CCU module is bad. The CCU module is in effect a computer control unit and controls the overall operation of the washer. The CCU module will cost approximately $150.00

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/henry_239f63a136de60f0

Inlet screen in the cold water hose is clogged (check at both ends) or the solenoid valve has failed.

Likely your hot water tank is filling with sand as well! Make sure that you drain it off regularly. As for the well, it might help to raise the pump elevation (if you have the water level to do so) some to get it out of the sand, although the sand will probably eventually fill in the bottom of the well. Can you get the well driller to install a sand filter? Not good for pump impellers either.
As for the washer, take the dryer off and set it aside. Unplug the power cord. When you remove the top, that should expose the upper side of the solenoid valves. Sand has probably been embedded in the valve seat and/or plunger faces. The valve pair can removed by disconnecting the wiring (keep track of where the colors go) and the exit hose(s) plus several screws. If the valve can be disassembled, clean both parts of any embedded sand, otherwise replace the valve. Put things back together and test with the dryer still off. You might run the cold water faucet into a bucket to flush the line before every wash. The hose screens obviously don't stop everything. Good luck!

You have a leaking solenoid. It is failing to shut off. You'll need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, and disconnect both hoses (make sure that you mark the cold side at the washer, if it doesn't already have a mark). The blur plastic item that you hose screws on to at the washer is the solenoid valve. All it is is an electrically controlled valve that is either open or closed. Rewmove the back of the washer to gain aces to the solenoid valve. Take this part with you to any appliance parts supply house, and they can provide an exact replacement. Reassembly is the reverse of removal.
This isn't a difficult job. You can do it!
Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution - thanx!

Turn off the water and reverse the hot and cold water connections going into the faucet, then turn the water back on. If only cold water comes out of the unit when on hot temperature then you need to order a water valve solenoid which I suspect is the problem or wash only in cold water. They are replaced by removing the back washer panel a couple of bolts, one connector, and two hose clamps. Remember to restore the hot and cold water connections.

It sounds like you have a bad fill valve assembly. Normally the valve opens and closes by an electrically activated solenoid which is usually controlled by a pressure switch. However...IF the diaphragm that closes on the valve is broken, has a hole in it, cannot close all the way due to an obstruction, or if your water pressure is too low, the valve will remain open and water will leak by. Since you didn't mention any problems with the hot water side of the valve, I would suspect that water pressure probably isn't a problem. Turn the water off and remove the hoses to the fill valve on the back of the washer. Inspect the cold water side for any obstructions and/or check for any damage to the valve itself. If you don't find anything obvious, replacing the fill valve will probably correct your problem. I hope this helps.