Question about Tricity Bendix AW1200 Front Load Washer
The safety device is stuck and i cannot open the door. any suggestions on how i get my clothes out?
Hi, we had something similar happen just before christmas. Our machine seemed to finish a cycle and started making beeping noise with end light flashing. Then when I switched it back on to do another load it just started beeping with end light flashing no matter what cycle was selected. Engineer has been out and advised that it is a fault with the motherboard so has ordered another one. Hope this is of some help. Machine was tricity bendix aw1400w.
Posted on Jan 05, 2007
Your machine possibly has a defective water inlet valve which is preventing water from entering the dispenser channel to flush the fabric softner into the machine. The inlet valve in inside of your machine right where the washer hoses attach. the solenoid valves on the inlet will need to be checked with a multimeter to verify if they are working properly.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
SOURCE: manual for tricity bendix 1000
Please try here:
If this is your model (there are 5 models with the same name) please rate my response.
If not, please let me know and I will find the link for your model.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
Hi, Your problem is very common and very easy to fix. You will first need to strip the machine down and remove the motor. Once you have done this then take off the motor carbon brushes, These are the little things in cases on the side of the motor casing. These should be at least 1" long! you will find that this is not the case and they will need replacing to resolve your problem. The parts should not cost anymore than around £20 for the pair.
Good luck any problems get beck to me............................
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
Can you hear the pump run when it is set to drain? If so, that is a good sign. Most reasons new machines won't drain is because they are tempermental with the drains. If the slightest clog is in there, they will shut off.
You may also want to service and test the timer:
Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new timer yourself.
Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by hand.
Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.
If drain is clear, and timer is ok, then it very well could be a bad pump.
Servicing the Water Pump
Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Take the pump apart and clean
away all debris inside the pump.
Also clear away debris from
the water tubes.
Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.
Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.
Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.
Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.
Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.
Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 16, 2014 | Tricity Bendix Washing Machines
Feb 10, 2014 | Tricity Bendix AW1000W Front Load Washer
Nov 28, 2013 | Tricity Bendix AW1000W Front Load Washer
Apr 28, 2010 | Tricity Bendix WDR1240W Front Load Washer...
Oct 31, 2009 | Tricity Bendix AW1000W Front Load Washer
Oct 06, 2008 | Washing Machines
Jul 21, 2008 | Tricity Bendix AW1200 Front Load Washer
Sep 16, 2007 | Tricity Bendix AW1000W Front Load Washer
57 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: