Electronic AC shuts down during power outage.

Hi Bruce

Most electronic equipment these days use a switch mode power supply, not the old transformer. This takes your AC 240/120 volt wall power to the necessary low DC voltages required by the actual electronic circuits.
They also have current sensors in case of circuit problems so that the shut down if a problem is sensed.
These switch mode supplies use a lot of Electrolytic Capacitors which are prone to age. They often Leak at the base or bulge at the top or even pop (blow).
If your up to it.... you could open up the box and check for leaky or blown Caps. They can be cheaply replaced with similar value devices. Take photo's before removal & beware of their polarity.
Obviously, if your not a technician, never work on a live switch mode circuit. You can get a nasty shock.

Good Luck


How to Replace an Electrolytic Capacitor

Capacitor Replacement Tutorial

How To Bypass fuse Or Fix Blu Ray Dvd Player No Power

Hi,

Which operating system are you running?

Look up product manual on internet.
Look at label located inside oven door, and add .pdf to search parameter to help find manual.
Then read section about lighting appliance.

If power is out, then pilot will not have any gas >> if gas control is electronic.
Many electronic gas controls require electric power to operate circuit board.

In old days, you removed the bottom tray on oven to access burner and pilot orifice. Then you pushed down switch to release gas through pilot tube, and put lit match into the gas stream to light pilot. Hold down switch until pilot flame heated tip of thermocouple which caused magnetic switch to stay open inside gas control. Release switch and pilot stayed lit.

Safety concerns and vast advances in manufacturing cheapness have changed gas appliances so they are more inconvenient for do-it-yourselfers during ordinary power outage.
Cook hamburger over metal bucket with newspaper, and grease on newspaper burns enough to cook hamburger.
People always buy generators and flashlights, but nobody suggest buying barbeque briquets and starter fluid as way to keep warm and cook.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Open following link for Utilitec timer manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-LW60418.html

This timer should have a back-up capacitor so that programming is kept in memory during power outage.
Power outage is known cause of timer failure. When power turns on, the surge knocks out electronics.
People writing to fixya report electronic timers and electronic water heater controls stop working after power outage. Probably many other electronic devices are affected too, but that would be out of my specialty.
Troubleshoot says 'in case of operational failure, press reset button to clear all settings and restart.'
If timer has failed, buy another from Lowes and return defect in new package.

Take a moment and rate answer:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

The "E1" Code indicates a security protection shut down code. Based o what you said about the power outage and the restoration of power, I assume the unit was left ON during the power out and restoration of power. A power surge more than likely caused the error code.

Hopefully irreparable did occur and you can get the electronics to reset by doing the following:

Turn the ON/OFF Switch to OFF and unplug the unit for 15 minutes. After that time has elapsed plug the unit in and turn the ON/OFF Switch to ON. Hopefully, the electronics reset & reverted back to the original factory settings and the error code has disappeared and you can set the controls as you like. If that didn't happen, you should contact Haier Customer Support 1-877-337-3639, as they can tell you which circuit was effected. From there, you can determine if a repair is warranted.

Hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

its the number 17 is for the spped control, electronic fuel gauge,electronic sppedometer, atc control, ac clutch, lamp outage, heater rear window, electronic blower spped controller

It's quite probable these units have gone faulty, due to the "Outage" see my previous post below.. You will need to replace these units, to restore functions. Please, have a read below, it may save you many $$ We have all had them, Power Outages, inconvenient, and also very deadly, well to Electronic equipment anyway. You see when any Circuit, is Made or Broken, at the instant of contact, when reconnecting, the current draw is considerable, also, after the connection has been made, and the "Load" being connected, and the Current draw is large, all sorts of transients, Spikes, Surges, Oscillations, is reflected, up and down the entire network. Now along with this, MOST people do NOT completely remove, the unit from the mains, by withdrawing the plug. nor, probably, even turn it off. This is wrong, ALL/ANY electronic equipment, that is connected to that Grid, will also encounter a phenomenon know as "Inrush Current" Now, this Inrush Current, Can and Does cause a great deal of damage to electronic equipment, the, instant reconnection, without going through an ON/OFF switch, and Power Conditioning Circuitry, well, the initial Current draw for that instant, is incredibly, high, and with nothing between, the current surges in, stressing everything, in the Power Supply, and more. Now along with that, you also have Transients, Spikes, Surges, Ringing, Oscillations, caused by the reconnecting of the Circuits. Joining of Cables, or Contacts. When the Power Goes OFF, you should NEVER leave anything plugged in after a Power outage, you need to withdraw each and every plug, from ALL Electronic equipment, note here, purely resistive, and relay type equipment is usually immune, it must be removed, and it shouldn't be reconnected, until about 5 minutes, AFTER the Power has been reconnected. This is to Avoid, all of the bad things that are caused by the reconnection back onto the Grid. If you do this, you can be assured of you Electronic items, lasting at least as long as they should, and not suffer premature deaths.

1. Provide conditioned clean AC power to computers & other peripherals (except laser printers, which should not be powered by UPS).
2. Protect equipment from the harmful effects of brownouts & sags.
3. Supply power to equipment during a power outage for a specific time, either to allow for the graceful shut down of systems, or to keep the systems working during the power outage (depending on the battery capacity).

Bypassing the switch will not stop it from going out during power outages.