Circuit breaker amp

have an electrician check for insulation issues
otherwise dead shorts or overloading

Check the nametag on the fridge and take note of the total amperage draw of the unit. That that reading, and multiply it by 120 volts and the resultant answer will the the total wattage of the unit... If you want to get it precise, measure the applied voltage at the receptacle where it is plugged in. Your 120 volt circuit may really be supplying 125 volts or more and that will effect the calculation....though minimally.

An older type of breaker or you have a total of to many amps being drawn. try a differnt plug or the charger is the problem.

You don't sya make and model but the easiest way to find out is to look on the production/serial number label for the exact details.
If you need the current drawn, divide the total Wattage drawn by your mains voltage and that will give you the current in Amps.
Hope that helps.

First of all, are there any other appliances or lights on this circuit? If so, they must be included in the total wattage for the circuit. The fan units are either listed with the Amp rating or wattage rating (Volt Amp) VA. The total amperage allowed on a 15 A circuit is 12A.(80% of the total per NEC). The total wattage would be 1380 watts. ( 115 Volt single phase X 15A = 1725 watts, 1725 x 80% = 1380 watts)

Its probably not a bad idea. Thats alot for a 100A panel to handle, a range needs a 50A, a water heater needs 30A, and the heat will need a 50A or a 60A breaker... Plus whatever else is in the house will be a bit more than the 100A service can handle. But if you don't have the money it will do for a while because for the most part they won't all be pulling at the same time. Word to the wise get at least a 30 space panel when you upgrade, I always install a 40 space panel because for the cost difference its well worth it for future needs because you'll fill it up quicker than you think and you'll have space for anything else you may want to add later on. Hope I helped

20A circuit x 80% service factor =16amps continuous. 16amps x 120V = 1920 wats. Your total would be only 900 watts. I have assumed that since you have a 20A ground fault breaker that you have #12 ga copper conductors. If you had a considerable distance the 16 amps continuous would drop due to voltage drop and so the total wattage would also, but you're way below these levels.

Hi .. Wattage is a measure of power .. it is the voltage a device opperates at multiplied by the amount of amperage it uses. Sometimes called volt- amps. For an example of this, a 200 watt lamp, on a 120 volt circuit, is using about 1.66 amps. That typical circuit is rated for 15 or 20 amps. The rating is determined by the wire size and the breaker protecting the circuit .. so on my lighting circuit I can install about 8 to 10 of these lights and be safely within the limits of the circuit. For a 1000 watt microwave , on a 20 amp kitchen circuit, this means that the microwave is using about half of the capacity of the circuit. You are charged for your use of electricity by a rate times your usage in kilowatt hours, or how many watts you use, times the hours you are using them.

Sure, what and how would you like me to help you with? 
The Volt meter probably has two different voltages to work with. One, is AC voltage. The AC (alternating current) sign looks like a slight horizontal S-shaped symbol. Your basically going to use this a majority of the time.  DC (Direct Current) voltage is used for battery related sources. But don't get to confused with this. Just keep it on AC for all house power voltage checks (eg. 110v or 220v) applications. Two, Amp meter? This is used to measure the amperage being used or drawn on that particular circuit, or motor. This is very helpful in determining if there's an overload problem. You'll use this in your electrical panel to check how many amps are being drawn on each particular circuit. It's very helpful in troubleshooting motors also, but you use it more for the latter application when it comes to working around your home. And Watts? Wattage measures power output. If you multiply Voltage times Amperage...you get Wattage (Ohm's Law). For residential use, most wattages are on your hair dryers, plug-in appliances, etc. Now that you know how to find wattage through multiplying voltage and amperage - you can tell if you're overloading a circuit, or in some cases - realize you're under not overloading the circuit, and then you'll want to check out your circuit breaker. Because this is a good barometer to finding a circuit breaker in the beginning phase of going bad. And last, but not least, you can get the make and model of your meter - and Google the manufacturer, and try to get the instructions on-line. Or, you can contact them and request them to send you one if you prefer a hard copy. Sometimes, they'll e-mail it to you - or they'll have you download it from their website. I hope this gives some direction. Feel free to contact me again if you have any further questions. Good Luck to you, and I hope this works for you. - Jim

check your main/sub panel,you may not have enough amperage to supply this unit,is it larger than your previous unit?chk your total wattage of unit and devide by your input voltage to get the amperes drawn on unit then chk fuses/breakers/wiring to see if they can handle the load