I have a treadmill on a dedicated circuit that trips a 15 amp BR arc fault breaker. When it trips it also trips two other arc fault breakers. Even when I change the breaker on the tread mill to a standard breaker the other arc fault breakers still trip. When the treadmill is not in use everything works normally. My question is how can a dedicated circuit other than the fact is come out of the same panel effect two other arc faults breakers when the load side of the breakers are isolated and correctly wired.

find the specification tag on the treadmill and note how many amps it draws...

If you meant arch fault with ground fault then no, the two types interfere with each other and trip the breaker as one senses an arch and the other grounding.
If you meant ground fault breaker with a GFCI. receptacle, you only need one of the two, either GFCI. breaker or receptacle.

and for circuits, you can put up to 12 devices (i.e receptacle, light)assuming they consume 1 amp each. Anything over 12 amps or 80% of the rating on the breaker, it will trip/reset.
Or if your talking about wires on a breaker then no more than 2 wires recommended. Try adding a junction box outside the panel if your trying to add other branch circuits or tap off of a receptacle.

Question is vague. Arc fault and ground fault are slightly different.

Are you installing arc fault breaker?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#arc-fault
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

Code says Maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.

Arc fault breaker and GFCI outlet in bathroom?
>>> do not connect this way.
Do not install 2 fault protections on same circuit.
Install the arc fault circuit breaker, and then remove bathroom GFCI, and replace with ordinary outlet, or switch-outlet.

How many outlets can be connected to a bathroom GFCI?
It depends on total boxes on circuit.
Count the boxes. Max 12 boxes per circuit breaker.

How many amps can be connected to 15 amp device?
15 x 80% = 12 amps
Electricians use 80% rule to calculate safe maximum
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

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Sounds like something is wrong with the light check the wiring. Unhook the light and try ther breaker if breaker does not trip then problem is in the circuit.

It is oil. It's used to extinguish the arc.

When a circuit breaker trips, there is an Arc of electricity made inside the breaker, due to the contacts.
The contacts are instantly brought away from each other.

There are three methods employed to extinguish that arc.

[Extinguish the arc. Non-technical explanation. With out some medium to extinguish the arc produced inside, it would go Z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-zap, instead of z-zap]

Oil, Air, and Sulfur Hexafluoride.

So yes, as long as the circuit breaker doesn't have to trip, and produce the arc inside, it is a working circuit breaker.

Is it a safe unit?

NO

The method employed to extinguish the arc if the breaker trips is leaking out.

Replace all breakers that are doing this.

Average cost for a GE single-pole 15, or 20 Amp is around $11 here. A few dollars more for 30 and 40 Amp, but usually double-pole breakers are used for 30, and 40 Amp.

I have a couple of things for you to check or rule out. Today, a refrigerator is required by electrical code to be connected to a dedicated, 15 amp outlet because the newer fridges are more efficient and use less than 12 amps. Not long ago, a dedicated 20 amp outlet was required because the older fridges were rated to use 12 amps or more (but less than 16 amps) and needed the larger size circuit. A 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse should not open for any standard residential fridge under normal operating conditions. A 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse _MAY_ open if an older fridge (needs 12 amps of more) is connected. Make sure that if a circuit is opening at the fuse or breaker, it is not because there are several appliances or devices in use and on the same circuit as the fridge.

The same holds true for "ground fault" and "arc fault" type circuits. If an older fridge is connected to such a circuit - nuisance tripping may result. Most newer fridges however shouldn't cause a problem on these circuits. Ground fault circuits have a "test" button on the circuit breaker or, "test" and "reset" buttons on an outlet providing this protection. Arc fault circuit protection is available only in circuit breakers (as of this time - but may become available as outlets some time in the future).

If you need to to try to isolate the problem on a 20 amp circuit, disconnect all other appliances on the other 20 amp circuits in the kitchen and dining room, then see if the fridge stays running. Alternatively, you could use a heavy duty extension cord to connect the fridge to a known isolated 20 amp circuit to see if the fridge runs. This is meant only to troubleshoot - the fridge should not be left connected via extension cord for normal operation.

If you still have tripping, you might need to have the fridge professionally serviced, as a ground fault could be a dangerous condition left unchecked.

Please rate this replay id found to be helpful - good luck!

The arc fault breaker must be made for the panel. Use of a breaker (any type of breaker) that is not either listed or classified for use in the panel is a code violation. Yes there are some differences between manufacturers. Compare specs. Make sure you installed the new breakers correctly, or they won't work at all anyway. Just because a breaker fits doesn't mean it's the right one for the panel.

It's possible that the first breaker that you said does not trip - it could be that breaker is failing to trip on a bad circuit. That is, it could be you have a bad circuit but that first breaker is not detecting it and pretends everything is OK. If your new breaker trips on the first breaker's circuit, the curcuit it probably bad and the breaker in not working properly. The most common problem for failed circuits is a stray ground wire in a box somewhere in the curcuit resting against a hot or neutral wire. You'll have to take apart every connection on that curcuit to find it. Not fun.

Arc fault breakers are definitely a pain. First make sure the receptacles are made for a 20 amp circuit. Second vacuums, Curlers,and most appliances will trip your breaker since they create an arc or a short if you will to operate. That is exactly what these breakers are made for. To stop the arc. Apparently they never really thought the whole arc fault thing through. As per code in most of arizona you only need this breaker in bedrooms where this type of appliance is not used. They also are more prone to popping so make sure you aren't running something on each of the receptacles at the same time

What is happening is the white wire that comes off the breaker is probably too close to another neutral or too close to a hot wire that is on one of the other circuits that will make it trip when you use a drill etc... Check to see if the coiled up white wire off of the breaker is not near a hot in the panel. I have had lots of arc fault breakers trip for that reason.