The Grill and 2 hotplates above the grill have stopped working. Can you give any ideas why and how to fix please?
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If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
Posted on May 03, 2015
SOURCE: Stoves 720ef grill not working
The grills appear to be independant of each other. Does the oven still work and the oven light come on?
Depending on your answer it could be that the Top Oven Switch has gone faulty. The Grill Regulator and the Switch work together on the top oven. To get at both you will need to take the top of the oven off.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
SOURCE: Stoves Newhome GL916
The timer has broken and needs replacing
I had the same problem, we checked all the wires inside and all ok, so phoned stoves and they said that the it sounds like the timer as this is the first port
Replaced the timer and cooker is now working fine - only thing to remember when ordering the timer - my cooker is green and now has a red light instead of green
Hope this helps
Cost of timer from stoves £56.83 inc vat and delivery
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: oven not heating up [fan works]
It wilbe a faulty oven element, you will need ti fit a new one.
It is located at the rear of the oven, behind a removeable cover.
Please rate my solution.
Thankyou.
Posted on Feb 11, 2010
SOURCE: My Belling oven has no heat, but the fan &
If the fan is working o/k, then there is little doubt that the oven element has failed.
This is quite common with fan assisted ovens.
The element is usually located at the rear of the oven compartment behind a removeable cover.
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks "
SOURCE: I have a Belling 652BL
ISOLATE MAINS POWER BEFORE OPENING SIDE AND REAR PANELS.
The grill and top oven have as discribed in the manual a temp regulator it is mounted on the side or rear chassis, this is probabily blown, they are normaly connected, when the devise goes faulty it stays open circuit, there are letters and numbers on this, take a note of them if you can read it. go to a local electrical store with the component, you should get a replacement, if however you have a multimeter, measure across the terminals with the meter on resistance, if no continuity, or contiunity to the case, the component is faulty. If however the component checks out working go to timers and remove the time on the auto timer for the top oven, visualy check the elements if the element have Black Grey spot, replace as it has blown, you can get spares at relativly low price you will need model and serial number of the appliance, from whitegoods.co.uk
hope this has been helpful
johnf1
Posted on May 17, 2011
Testimonial: "Had a chance to investigate yesterday, and it does indeed appear to be the temperature regulator at the rear of the cooker which is faulty. Thanks fo"
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