Bought a used GE Range Model # JGP35BEA2BB and I've been sorry ever since. Converted it to LP. The sealed burners and broiler work fine. However, when we turn on the oven and program it to 350 (just an example) it takes forever (5 min +) for the burners to come on. Ignitor is a very bright orange. When the oven comes on it will get to about 225 and then start going on and off. Then comes the smell of LP. Of course I shut it off at that time. Of course, when I bought this the owners said it worked just fine. Did I get ripped off or do things with conversions sometimes go awry?
Without regard we would like to have a solution to the oven problem. I'd just love to bake some cookies and the broiler just doesn't cut it.....
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when the lp conversion is done , it is normally just a jet size change that is done
however the air shroud has to also be adjusted to get a clean blue burn of the flame
The just jet change results in a slightly yellow flame which is incomplete burn of the gas and that creates carbon build up at the jet and burners causing partial blockage
I would suggest that you call in an accredited gas fitter to check the problem and if necessary , clean the jets and adjust the air shroud
If you only changed the gas regulator for use with LP (the regulator located at the connection of the gas service) then you still need to change the orifices for all burners, top and oven. Of course I assume this model can be converted for use with LP. Some models cannot. A new range that can be converted for LP typically includes the needed LP orifices. A card with the LP orifices is typically located at the gas regulator.
There should be a set of orifices for each burner as well as the oven and broiler. When the unit was converted to propane, these orifices should have been replaced and the ones for gas put in with the conversion kit installation information. The kit should have been reattached near the pressure regulator.
If the kit was missing the orifices, then, yes, you are missing pieces. Check with your coworker if the conversion kit was missing. If you have the kit, it can be easily done by any appliance installer (or repair person) licensed for handling NG. (At least on our range, the conversion kit installation was straight forward. Every orifice was clearly labeled with the labels different for each burner and for the gas/LP kits (ABCD (NG) vs MNOP (LP)) .) The regulator is the only part that switched for LP or NG without the kit.
As I recall, the only tools we needed for the top burners were a small wrench (10 mm) and a small flat blade screwdriver. Remove one orifice and put in the appropriate replacement. Then adjust the burners so that they didn't blow out when the oven was opened or quickly turned from high to low (for the simmer burner). The oven and broiler took a bit longer. Several screws had to be removed to get at the orifices. Then the air flow had to be adjusted for the incoming gas.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (the conversion installation manual was on the counter during installation; I read it while it was open.)
Their are 2 types of ranges. Ones with sealed burners and ones that do not have sealed burners. The sealed burner ranges must have a kit to replace the orifices. The none seal burner models are simply called crank down and flip models. That means you flip the screw on top of the regulator to where it reads LP. and then you tighten down the spuds on the top burners and the oven valve and then you adjust the air shutters.
Note: Some stoves with sealed burners cannot be converted to LP. The model number you posted is not a correct model number.
Turn off the gas supply. Locate the gas valve regulator. Unscrew the top cap on the regulator,turn it over and re-install it.It should be marked NAT. LP.When correctly converted you will be able to read LP. On the Performa all the conversion parts should just be adjustments. Remove the oven racks,remove the oven base pan,remove the oven flame spreader pan to access the safety valve. Take a 1/2 inch open end wrench and tighten the orifice on top of the gas safety valve. Tighten it until it is snug.Remove the top burners and raise the top to access the surface gas valves.Tighten the valve spuds until snug. Re-assemble all parts.Turn the gas back on and lite the burners. Turn them high and low to make sure they stay lit. If any burner is not right tighten or loosen the orifice spud for that burner only. All air shutter adjustments should be full open,
are basically two types of ranges to deal with:
sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today,
and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones. While
they operate in much the same way, their conversion is
usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable
sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must
be individually replaced to convert each burner from one
fuel to another.
(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized
hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has
a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed
a threaded portion). Either
way, basically what you're doing when going from natural
gas to LP is changing to a smaller orifice to allow for the
higher pressure supplied by the 'bottled' gas (The available energy
in each ft of gas is different too, but for our purpose here
that's not important). Natural gas supplies typically run around
a pressure of 5.5 inches water column, while LP runs at
twice that pressure, averaging around 11 inches.
The orifice through
which the gas travels to the burner must be smaller to accommodate
this difference. Adjustable
orifices are simply 'snugged' down, clockwise, with a
1/2 inch open-end wrench, to convert them. Nearly all oven burners
use these too - more about that in a minute. Fixed
orifices are replaced, and the good news is: the LP parts are
usually included with the new range. On some brands (GE being
one), the unused set is
attached to a storage point on the stove,
and this is a great idea. This way, they can't get lost, and if
you ever want to convert
back, there they are! The
not-so-good news: these little top burner orifices very often require
a metric wrench to remove & install. And some can't be changed
without a very slender wrench or nut driver.
To post a more specific solution you need to have the model number, but with the info you have given, I'm guessing that you have hooked the range up to LP gas and the range was not fully converted from natural to LP. If all burners burn nice, whomever converted the range may have missed one step. Many ranges with pilot lights have a small slot head screw behind the oven temp set knob which turns one way for natural, one way for LP.