This could be any number of issues. You can remove the front kick panel by inserting a putty knife between the door section and top of kick panel and pop those clips down. The clips are approx 2 inches from the sides. When you pull down the kick panel, the element will be on the right side. The element could be bad, or the thermofuse (which is mounted on that box in front of the thermostat). You can ohm out these two and see if you get resistance. These are the usual suspects that can cause a no heat problem. Other problems could be a bad timer or bad heat control board. These are unlikely, but they do go bad.
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Kenmore Elite 110.63952102, similar problem, no heat but everything else seems to work fine...heater element has continuity (10 ohms), thermal cutoff has continuity, hi temp thermostat has continuity, thermal fuse has continuity, and thermistor has continuity (10 ohms), is 10 ohms too high for the thermistor, looks like a direct link, unsure why the resistance. The power to the house is good checked with DMM, 240 and 110 both present on the four prong connection and the power seems good at their connection. When I ran supply connections test in the tech sheet I did not get continuity on the L1 connection on the plug and the black wire on the timer as expected and the guide now says there is a problem in the wiring harness, needle in the haystack on that one, suggestions.
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