Fan motor my oven has been packed away for 8 months. When I set it up to use, the fan does not run. I removed the back, plugged it up, watched as the fan tried to turn, made a quick grunt, but would not run. Unplugged, the fan turns freely by hand.

Make sure that the fan motor is being energized. If so, and it does not run then the fan needs to be replaced.

There is a good discussion on how to remove the fan for a BOV800XL here:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/fan-motor-assembly-p-1857917.html

Unplug the unit for at least 30 seconds. Plug in, set clock. When making pizza punch in the time you wish it to run, such as "7:30" then "start". Watch carefully the first time to see how much time it takes to cook to your liking.

You really need to replace the fan. This motor uses cheap sleeve bearings and you will only cause a problem (maybe burn the house down) trying to spray lube from the interior which I assume is what you are doing.

This is not an easy repair. I replaced mine which had an open winding. HB tried to make this unit so it could NOT be repaired, but of course it can be if you want to spend the time. The motor is part of a metal duct assy which also holds the rotisserie motor. It is RIVETED to the interior wall of the oven. The fan uses a DUAL shaft C-Frame shaded pole 120 VAC ~ 3000 RPM ~ .5 amp motor which is not very common, with 2 separate axial type metal blade sets. The oven door also develops a problem over time that keeps it from staying closed. The thermo on all these units is also inaccurate as the "sensor" is simply a metal plate screwed to the top right area of the oven interior. When I replaced my fan I also put in a new REAL oven thermo with a 12" sensing bulb which I mounted inside the oven as it should be. It took some searching to find these two parts. You can also repair the door mechanism at the same time and give yourself a couple more years until you have to do it again. I have all more and can post images if you want to tackle this. I did because the oven is large and the replacement model (31100 for $69 at Wal-Mart) has 1.5" less height and it uses the SAME parts with the same design flaw for the thermo. The retail cost on the parts for this job are ~$160, but I got mine for $15 total. I paid $48 for this oven years ago at Sams.

If Farberware can't help then copy and paste this address. It will give you a list of sites that carry oven parts. Maybe one of them can help.

netshoppers.com/search/index.php?phrase=oven+parts&uid=d5d00793c96dccbcaa9b5f3ca3d412cd&kuid=4c4a6ef184c15b7eeffee322a7d94921&src=7s

<a href="http://www.toasterandconvectionovens.com">ToasterandConvectionOvens.com</a>

The PCB board is definitely at fault here. One of the dc voltage lines is transferring too much current. The regulator and resistors are probably compromised. The better option is to replace the board than to try and fault find the components.

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Hiya, I had the same problem. Check out this site and at the bottom of the page it tells you what the symbols mean.
http://ozdogweb.com/realistic-renos/listings/packages/the-classic-pack-mouse.html

mine says the fan will turn on and off to keep the computer board cool... probably normal

you are correct . it is the convection . the fan blows the air around and away from the elements ,when that is happening the elements can never get hot enough to glow , as the oven gets hotter and at some point the air is so hot even with it blowing the elements will start to get red ... this is good because todays elements are thin and cheep and melt easy so the fan keeps the heat away from them and the elements last longer ...... if this answer helped please rate it a 3 or 4 stars .this high rate will help keep me in the paid answer department ... thank you

It is usually one of two items that could cause this problem. You need to take the outer shell off. Lots of screws. Pull the "brain board" from the right, front of the oven. There is a relay housing. This 30 amp. relay is made by Omron. Look at the connector pins on the back side of the relay, especially the white wire that goes to the distribution block then on to the heating coil. I find that the soldered pins on the pc board next to the relay often get so hot that they 'shed' the solder. If so, simply clean well and re-solder. The relay itself can also go bad. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to obtain replacements. What I did on one oven was to buy a 30 amp, open frame relay (~$20). Mount it on the chassis near the fan. Remove the Omron relay and simply run the appropriate wires to the open frame relay. That works very well.