Filter Removal: Clockwise or Counterclockwise?

Same thing happened to my GE Hybrid Geospring Water Heater. Luckily, I bought the extended service plan from Lowes. The problem is a leaking evaporator coil in the heat pump (top portion) of the water heater. Believe it or not, the evaporator coil may be freezing up due to low refrigerant levels, which triggers the filter alarm. GE knows all about this problem, and it is covered by the 10 year warranty FOR PARTS. Labor is not covered, even though this is a big defect. Unless you bought the extended warranty... You will need an HVAC service tech to fix this problem, preferably one who works for GE Appliance services. Last, but not least, owners need to report this to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC.GOV), as in my opinion A RECALL IS IN ORDER HERE. After all, the thought that 410A refrigerant is leaking into my home (my water heater is in our multi-purpose room) is ANYTHING BUT SAFE!

RESET FILTER COUNTEROnce you have replaced your filter, the filter life counter is reset back to its fullamount remaining value by turning the dial to AIR FILTER and pressing the UPand DOWN buttons together at the same time. NOTE: The counter is also reset bychanging the filter setting value, as described above, to a different number ofdays.

You need to cut water supply to filter, you may want to put a bucket or something to catch water under it, then, press the button on filter to release pressure in filter. If you have a wrench for it, the wrench should slide up from bottom and engage ribs on side of filter. Turn counter clockwise to remove, sometimes you can do this by hand. You can also use a strap wrech, just don't break canister. You also want to try not to strain your pipes if they are not supported. Any way, you may have to figure a way to grip canister to twist off. You do not want to overtighten for this reason. After you change your element, make sure the o-ring in the lip inside of canister is in place. Twist back on, clockwise. Turn your water on and check for leaks.

Why did it fail? How did it fail? Was it the plumbing that failed? Replace it with a Pentair filter housing, 10" housing, 20" housing or Big Blue housing and make sure it is plumbed in properly. It is very unusual for a filter housing to fail unless it freezes up.
RJ

I don't know much about these heaters though I do have some experience of the vented type. The main difference I believe is the unvented or multipoint type will switch on when the water pressure drops as a consequence of turning on a tap or faucet. The vented type switches on when the water pressure rises.

The temperature depends on flow and the starting temperature of the mains water supply and a small drop in the starting temperature, during winter for instance, for a given flow can have a considerable effect on the final temperature.

I assume the filter is fitted to the inlet, though I doubt it matters. In this case a partially blocked filter would provide a restriction tending to reduce the flow and increase the temperature.

The heaters presumably work fine when first installed but performance soon falls off until for a given flow the final temperature becomes too low.

I expect the problem is being caused by being in a hard water area and the heater working too well initially. When hard water is raised to a temperature above 140 degrees F scale forms inside the vessel and around the heating element robbing it of efficiency. Inside a kettle or tank heater it matters less if water heating takes a little longer over time but with an instant heater peak efficiency is vital.

Around here it is usual to fit a water softener to the inlet of such heaters or to ensure the thermostat is set lower than 140 degrees, preferably both.

The chemical removal of scale is a slow process which means manual removal is the best option, though this is often impractical leaving replacement as the best option. I suggest you dismantle the heater to discover whether manual scale removal is viable.

Make sure the water is turned off to system. Open the faucet to system to drain any water and keep the faucet turned on to keep pressure off filter housings.
1.Use the wrench to take housings off.
2. If they still won't budge take a small 2x4 block of wood and hammer, set the block of wood on the RIB for the housing and tap with hammer.
3. Change the o-rings in both housings, lubricate with silicone lube and lubricate the threads on housings with silicone also.
3. Rinse housings with small amount of bleach and clean thoroughly.
4. Replace filters and housings.
5. IMPORTANT: Only tighten housings by hand. NEVER tighten housings with wrench.
RJ

This could be caused by several different issues. A faulty switch on the well, bad well tank, bad check valve. If you have a water softener, bypass it to see if pressure loss is through it. That carbon filter will cause even more pressure loss. Turn a cold water faucet on, let the well cycle several times and observe the cut-in and cut-out pressure. Typical well pressure pressure will be 40-60psi.
RJ

Hello.. Spray some WD-40 on it and let it sit over night. Then do not use a torque wrench, just a big old wrench with a cheater bar if you have one and I assure you that it will come off. Regards, Joe
PS a torque wrench is never for removal, only installation.

I don't believe that any filtration system is capable of removing dissolved calcium from water and that is what causes the white deposits. Water softeners will, but I don't like the idea of dissolved salts in our tap water.

counterclockwise