I replace the lower burner element, which worked now for about a year. Suddenly it has stopped working. The top burner element in the oven works. Can I remove the element and carefully measure the voltage at the terminals? If yes, should I be reading a range of voltage according to the temperature set? Also, if I measure the resistance of the element after I removed it from the oven, what should a functional element measure? Thanks for your help.
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Re: Lower burner not working
You don't have to look for a certain resistence on the element, just continuity. If you have a digital meter it should beep when you check across the terminals. You can check for voltage also, 240 volts constant, it doesn't change with temp.
You can turn power off to stove, remove element, turn power back on, and do these checks, but it is safer to pull the stove out, remove the back and check from there. There will be 120v at element even when it is off unless control has double line relay, don't take the chance.
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I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.
I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
The problem is likely one of two things: Either the lower burner is shot and should be replaced, or there is a defect in the switch. The burner is the more likely problem if the upper burner is still working. If the lower burner works on any of the other settings it could be the switch, which would need to be replaced.
you may have blowen the fuse on one side of the power line . the burner's on top may still work . so replace the element that was bad and any wring that shorted and reset both fuses. so that 220 is present . and oven and top burners should be ok ..mm hope this helped . mm
The lower burner in the top oven does not work, although the broiler does work. The broiler and lower burner in the bottom over both work. Could it be the burner element or would it be the relay board ?
If all the elements are dead, check for blown fuses/tripped circuit breakers.
There may be some in the range unit itself in addition to your electrical
If one element is completely dead on all heat settings, the control is
probably bad or there is a broken wire. If it is stuck on high for
all control settings or is erratic, the control is bad - replacements
are readily available and easily installed.
On ranges with push button heat selection, a pair of heating elements are
switched in various combinations across 120 and/or 240. If some heat
settings do not work, the most likely cause is that one of the heatings
elements is burnt out although a bad switch is also possible. Kill power
to the range and test the heating elements for continuity with resistance meter or multimeter.
For the lower baking element: Again, check for blown fuses in the oven or tripped circuit breakers. The remove any wiring to the bottom element and test for resistance. If you get no reading (or a very high resistance) then your element is dead.
I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.
318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer 318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer
Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.
The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.
To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.
NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.