When washer spins dry, and new load placed in washer the water continues to drain while tub should be filling, sometimes i can run the spin cycle again then it will work

What has happened is that your water pump has gone out and it cannot pump the water out of the washers tub. This is a common issue and replacing the pump is not that hard assuming you have the time, effort, tools and energy.

That sounds like you have one of them fancy water saving outfits with a diverter valve that dumps the pump water continuosly over the clothes. Weirdest washer I ever saw. Could be the solenoid that opens the drain pump has failed. Don't know too much about em but I do have the service manual. Post your model number for a more precise answer. Whirlpool Catalyst washer manual

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The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Normally yes. There are around 12 to 20 gallons of water in the tub after the wash cycle, which will be anywhere from 63 to 110 pounds of weight in addition to the weight of the clothes. For the machine to start the spin cycle to remove this water would place a heavy load on the motor, gearcase, pullys, belts, gears, ect. With the water drained, the load is lighter, and much easier to start spinning the excess water out of the clothes. The normal cycles are: Fill, Agitate, Drain, Spin, Rinse Fill, Agitate for rinse, Drain, Spin Cycle and off. Imagine trying to spin a 5 gallon bucket of water over your head, full of water, and then empty. Which one do you think would be easier to do? And safer for you.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

• It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.



• It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

It sounds as if you have something acting as a flap causing the restriction. You should take the hose that leads from the tub to the pump off and see if there is anything just inside the tub. I have noticed that alot times you could have a coin that blocks the opening. You may have to remove the inner tub to remove anything in there

electriic inlet valve is obstructed, try removing cold water hose direct the hose into a bucket and fill the tub on the warm setting (flushing the cold valve) then try the washer again ..If that doesn't work a new valve is needed

Problem fixed. I took apart the bottom of the washer to access the pump, and found that there was underwire from bras stuck in the discharge tube blocking the water from exiting the washer and that was causing the cycle problem. I guess that the washer knew that there was too much water in the tub and kept trying to expel it.

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

• It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.



• It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Jayron, is the motor jogging? start to spin, stop, start to spin stop. If so, your motor is jogging between the high and low start windings. The motor during spin should start on the high speed windings and stay there until most of the water is drained. GE came out with a new motor, harness and run cap because of this. If you have a meter, there should be a white and white/red wire going to the motor. If you have a steady 120V and it's doing this jogging, replace the motor with the kit...Let me know if this the issue, Catriver..post back.