KleenMaid Washing Machine shop manuals/repair instructions

Hello,

Firstly i want to apoligize for the quesionable advice,some on here or elsewhere on the net fixed their washer and suddenly their are experts!!
Now Then as you know your washer is made by Amana/Speed Queen and has no agitator dogs(a quick search of parts breakdown will show anybody that) it also has no spin tube (aka basket drive),the brake pads which it does have would squeal only when washer stops spinning if they were bad just like squalling brakes on or vehicle the are quite till applied if bad,what the most likely cause of the noise is going to be the tub bearing,it is on the bottom of the outer tub. The inner and outer tub must be removed,it is advisable if replacing the tub bearing that you also replace the tub seal since it may not seal correctly once taken apart and leak badly.The hub taht connect inner tub to transmission must be removed so ya can remove the outer tub it requires a special wrench which is not to expensive but nothing else will work. IF ya want to go ahead and repair this the part numbers are;
TUB BEARING 40004201P
TUB SEAL 35-5655-1
SPANNER WRENCH 306P4

PROCESS TO REPLACE BEARING;
unplug power
remove front panels
remove screws holding top to cabinet
remove plastic tub cover by down slightly and lift tabs
remove agitator
remove bolts from hub under agitator and remove inner tub
use that spanner wrench and a hammer on nut on hub and remove nut in counterclockwise direction by hitting wrench w/hammer
lift off hub
remove rubber tub seal
remove all springs from outer tub by locking on vise grips and pull springs off
remove bolts holding outer tub to the to tub support
pull off outer tub and set down so bottom is facing up
remove old bearing and install new old
reassamble in reverse order

this is a link for parts breakdown http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-NAV2330AWW/1268/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=NAV2330AWW

to order parts order from sears or for a cheaper price by a little rearsch from
apdepot.com
assuredparts.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Good luck, if you have any question reply and ask away.
Gene

Cindy,

I feel you have a Tub Seal Leak and from what you describe the Outer Tub bearings need to be replaced.


It’s a job but most DIY’ers can do this despite what you may see posted about calling in a expert and shell out $450+.

What are the 1st two digits of your serial number? They will be 10,11,12 thru 17.

How long can you be with the washer down?

I estimate a Tub Seal kit with Tranny O-ring and bearings to be about and the tool to be about $70…..but you get to extend the service life of your investment.

I will post a link with some info. I would not buy anything until your husband removes the Inner Wash basket form the Spinner Support. I had a difficult time removing the Spinner bolts from the Spinner assembly. You will need a impact tool to remove them air or electric.

I’m an owner not a repair person with basic mechanical skill sets nothing fancy. But you have done a Clutch maintenance or replacement and I feel you can accomplish.

Take a look at the post and see what you think. One of the links discuss a Series 15 with integrated One-Way Roller clutches in the upper Outer Tub bearing assembly. You will read how this owner got around this fantastic Maytag improvement…..they should have stayed with the Upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring for all series.

Series 15 outer tub bearing replacement;
http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fav6800aw_sn_15_top_loader_r_nunit

http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-just_replaced_new_clutch_fav9800aww


http://www.fixya.com/support/t3961902-maytag_neptune_bearing_noise

Neptune TL Spinning Issue Will Not Proceed read thru initial troubleshooting to end of post.

You will need this tool to remove the Spinner Nut. See Page 48/49 of the Service Manual for removing the Spinner Nut. It can be done with a impact tool and a 1.75” socket.
My cost for Spinner nut locking ring and spanner I did not purchase the kit. All you need are the two items listed below ;


Let me know if I can help.....Rich

I feel you have a Tub Seal leak.

Did you replace the Clutch Pulley or a repair service?

You are talking about the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the white bearring plate correct? The First two digits of your serial number are 12 thru 17. What are the first two digits of your serial number?

To replace the Tub Seal you need to remove the spinner assembly. That means you have to remove the outer tub. A bigger job but several on this forum have completed it including myself two weeks ago on a Series 10 FAV6800A.

I will point you to a link most recently where a form member replaced Outer tub bearings on his Series 15. If your wash basket spins up to 850 rpm with no Outer Tub bearing noise I would just do a tub seal replacement this round.


You would need the Tub seal see Sears Parts Direct. I would also pick up the Tranny O-ring seal (series 10) .

Some links on Outer Tub Bearing replacement.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fav6800aw_sn_15_top_loader_r_nunit


http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-just_replaced_new_clutch_fav9800aww

If you replace the tub seal make sure you remove this sleeve that will more than likely stay on the Spinner Support when you remove. See Page 49 of the Service Manual. Here is a real world pic of the sleeve on the Spinner Assembly.



I did break off a Spinner Bolt even after heavy soaking in Liquid Wrench be careful;



There should be six there oops!


Good luck and post back if I can help.....Rich

I believe you may have a Tub Seal Leak you will need to remove the Outer Tub to start of the repair process for a Tub Seal replacement. I would start by removing the clutch I feel the water will coming down the Spinner Assembly support and or the agitator shaft driving the transmission.
See this post Clutch Fix for removing the clutch and inspecting and re-lube of the One-Way Roller clutches bearing. You will find links to the Service Manual at that post.
Read this post1 and this post2 for removing the Outer Tub Bearings and seals and special tool to remove Spinner Assembly. No doubt this is a big job but other DIY’ers have done if you can tolerate the down time.
I feel repair cost will trigger a washer replacement if a DIY fix is not an option for you.
I’m an owner not a repair person but have some hands on with the FAV6800A and have helped owners/repair folks out with FAV9800A LCD version of this machine…..Rich

sorry to saybut you would probley need to stripp down most of the unit...to remove chord.

GE style washer Common problems: - greeseOil on the clothes or floor. In most cases a new transmission will be required. You can rebuild the Trans for oil on the floor, but I find it best just to replace the transmission with a rebuilt one = less problems and faster repair. I have a parts breakdown of the old style transmission here. How to access the washer information.
Change transmission in GE washer-Take transmission out for repairs. - Unplug washer. Remove agitator from washer by pulling straight up on it, some agitators have a bolt under the cap, remove cap and look for a bolt first. Remove the agitator bearing from transmission hub. Get top up by pressing on 2 clips located about 6 in in from side between top and cabinet. Putty knife or flat blade screwdriver works well here. Take the filter flow tube off. Lift top. Remove three bolts holding basket to hub, and use a 12 POINT 1/2" socket to remove the bolts. Lift basket out of washer. Remove the two clamps holding the black boot to the tub and to the transmission. There are six bolts holding the transmission in the washer. Remove the bolts and lift transmission out of the machine.
To replace bottom seal - Turn trans. upside down in a bucket, put in vice, etc. Remove the nut holding the drive pulley on. Take drive pulley off. You can now pry the oil seal out of the trans. bottom and replace. If you wish to put the proper amount of oil in the trans. you will need to remove the bottom cover. Unless you have lost a great deal of oil, I would bypass this. I would estimate the oil loss and put in a lesser amount through the opening where you will be putting the new seal. When replacing the pulley, do not turn the nut holding pulley on. Hold nut stationary and turn pulley in the direction that nut will tighten. This will keep you from separating the hub, torque spring, and drive collar in the transmission. If you see evidence of water in the transmission, my recommendation would be to purchase a rebuilt transmission and repair in that manner. You may wish to do this regardless of the condition of the trans. You will receive a one year warranty with the rebuilt trans. I have a parts breakdown here for the transmission if you need it.
Usually you have to only add a little oil to replace what was lost...not much...really!!
The oil used is a Non-detergent, Gear oil approximately 90 weight. The main pulley seal is WH8X281 and foam nut seal is part # WH2X671.

do you know where I can obtain a repair manual for my Kleenmaid KAW693 I need to replace the seals and bearings as it leaks a bit of water and makes a screeching noice when agitating. My email address is [email protected] Thank you

This may be a little late, but it may assist someone else. On my Kleenmaid (KAW693W) top loader I found the agitator has clips at the bottom of agitator that clip over a drive hub at the bottom of the "tub" . All you have to do is gently prise it up using your fingers between the bottom of the agitator and the bottom of the tub.
Paul

normally i would replace brake pads $44.tub seal $ 160 belt $55 and pulley assy on gearbox $ 65 its not a hard job but if you have never done one it may be trikky.also make sure the gearbox shaft under the agitator isnt wobbling if it is buy a new machine.