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My suggestion is to get an additional humidifier and run both. It sounds like it is at capacity. This was a cold winter and the additional heating put a large demand on the humidifiers.
An integrated de-humidifier is normally a cycling Air Conditioner. If the one on the furnace has a water line running to it, shut the water off and see what happens.
The E3 Code, indicates that the air intake filter needs to be removed and cleaned. Be sure the unit is OFF and unplugged before removing the filter. Filter cleaning should be performed at least once every two weeks, as part of Routine Maintenance.
On the side with the lint screen, remove the five screws holding the top
panel in place. The sensor that needs to be checked in mounted on the
radiator fins. Remove the sensor and 4 pin connector. With a pin,
remove the loose fitting housing the "sensor"...a circuit board that
"shorts" with condensation...check corrosion and look for component
damage on the oft chance the circuit board was damaged by some
inappropriate poking or mechanical failure. Reassemble and replace
sensor...
For a short life span...or out of warranty and only at your risk (IF
have significant other or kids or pets or human DNA... don't do this...)
.. guide wire through screen notch and attach to outer screen. Build
fortress around exposed sensor and talk to insurance agent for a special
rider...seriously be careful.
Did you? Clean screen and GENTLY clean fins of lint, etc....(vacuum's brush head should do the trick...)
Taking all appropriate safety precautions.
...
Here's the 100,000 (yen) tip....with humidifier unplugged, hold down the
power button (green button in lower center) and plug in the appliance.
Watch the LCD screen as it conducts a self test...and wha...lah!.
Should have a working humidifier!
(your welcome).
no really..."de nada". :"don't touch your moustache" "Doye toche moche"(?), "prego".
In plain English, the Percentage setting on your de-humidifier is the percentage of moisture that you want to maintain in the air. Relative humidity level range from about 10% (VERY dry air) to almost 100% (VERY damp air). When relative humidity is 100%, water vapor in the air will turn into rain, condensation, dew, snow or frost. 50% humidity is usually a comfortable level, but that will also depend on air temperature. The more moisture there is in the air, the warmer it feels and conversely. Warm air will hold more moisture than cooler air.
Your body is cooled when moisture on your skin evaporates into the air, carrying body heat with it. As the humidity in the air rises, less of your body moisture is able to evaporate and thus your body feels wamer. Lower humidty allows moisture from your body to evaporate more quickly and you feel cooler, both at the exact same temperature.
On the side with the lint screen, remove the five screws holding the top
panel in place. The sensor that needs to be checked in mounted on the
radiator fins. Remove the sensor and 4 pin connector. With a pin,
remove the loose fitting housing the "sensor"...a circuit board that
"shorts" with condensation...check corrosion and look for component
damage on the oft chance the circuit board was damaged by some
inappropriate poking or mechanical failure. Reassemble and replace
sensor...
For a short life span...or out of warranty and only at your risk (IF
have significant other or kids or pets or human DNA... don't do this...)
.. guide wire through screen notch and attach to outer screen. Build
fortress around exposed sensor and talk to insurance agent for a special
rider...seriously be careful.
Did you? Clean screen and GENTLY clean fins of lint, etc....(vacuum's brush head should do the trick...)
Taking all appropriate safety precautions.
...
Here's the 100,000 (yen) tip....with humidifier unplugged, hold down the
power button (green button in lower center) and plug in the appliance.
Watch the LCD screen as it conducts a self test...and wha...lah!.
Should have a working humidifier!
(your welcome).
no really..."de nada". :"don't touch your moustache" "Doye toche moche"(?), "prego".
Hi there - you have to vacuum the filter several times. You can pull it out of the back left hand side of the unit. Vacuum it several times, and then start the unit on the lower fan setting, at a humidity level of around 60%. It will kick in after a bit, and then you can start adjusting the humidity level to where you would normally use it.
Sometimes - after you have vacuumed the filter, it still doesn't work. I used my fingers to pick lint off the filter, and ran a BIC safety razor over it as well, to try and get more out of the filter. You can also wash the filter in warm water, and leave it to dry over night. Don't put it back in until it's completely dry.
You can try cleaning the humidity sensor, which is on a circuit board housed in a nylon clip attached to the cooling coils. The sensor is in a plastic clip, which can be opened up and cleaned. Some report success. Didn't work for me.
I ended up rewiring the unit so that a 5v control line from the lower relay board goes through the SPDT bucket full switch, turning on the control board when full (so it beeps), but otherwise enabling the compressor and fan. The fan and compressor are controlled by relays, which are driven by a ULN2003AN relay driver. I fed the empty side of the full bucket switch back into the relay driver to turn on the compress and the fan on high. I plan to put a dehumidistat in series with this control line; now it just runs till the bucket is full. A Broan DH100W dehumidistat is 20 bucks. Could also put in a rotary switch to control the fan speed, but for me high is enough.
I think this machine is made by Goldstar for Kenmore and Delonghi. Stuff is just made to break and through away these days, which is a shame.
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