My Rinnai Tankless Water Heater has been in service for 18 months. It works well (when it works); but I have a recurring failure to start problem which my installer now reports is due to sand in my well water. The original flow sensor was recently replaced but that did not resolve the problem. The RU80i is equipped with a screen type filter which Rinnai Technical Support says will capture particles as small as, "263 microns". But apparently, this is not sufficient to protect the water flow sensor from silt, i.e., extra fine sand. As I now understand it, the flow sensor is subject to failure when exposed to silt. A higher level of filtration is required; but Rinnai does not have a fixed micron value for the required higher level. Is there a known fix for this problem?
The first thing that you should do is get a water sample and have it tested for TUBIDITY. Then see what the contaminates are. This will tell you what the problem is. I seriously doubt what Rinnai is telling you is the truth. Then you need to look into a whole house water filter that has an NSF recommendation. That will stop all the issues that you are having.
SOURCE: No hot water
The code # 11 is a code that warns of "no ignition" and the causes of this error code are too many to list. I would suggest that a qualified tech. perform a diagnostic test and repair.
This is not a task for the "do it yourselfer"
SOURCE: Rinnai tankless water heater code 12
12 - Flame Failure or Poor Ground
1. Immediate code 12 is usually a defective gas valve, power supply problem, or defective fan motor wiring harness.
2. If code 12 occurs after a few seconds it indicates that proper operation was established, but then stopped unexpectedly.
3. Verify that fuel is being supplied to the unit.
4. Check for proper electrical ground. Unit must use a grounded power supply.
5. Check for flue blockage on inlet or exhaust.
http://www.foreverhotwater.com/service-codes.php
SOURCE: No water flow from hot water tap with a rinnai tankless water hea
Its A Possibility The Left Over Water In The Hot Is Frozen. If Your Line Is Exposed Outside Somewhere It Can Easily Freeze Up. Turn On The Hot Water Everywhere In The House And If Accessible Check The Lines To See Where The Warmth Ends. You Can Leave One Off Over Night In Hopes That It Will Eventually Defrost.
SOURCE: My Paloma tankless water heater flashes C2 11 error code
I just had the same problem and I fixed it in about an hour or 2.
First shut off the gas,water and power(unplug it)
Take off the cover
There are about 20 screws above the electrical circuit board.
You have to remove all of those screws to remove plate that is covering the burner assembly.
The burner assembly has these 3 pins that look like number 7's
these are covered with build up and gas can't flow right.
That's why you get the c211 error not enough gas.
Take a wire brush and gently remove any build up,
I also cleaned the thermocoupler which is next to the burners.
It looks like a metal pin with a couple of wires coming out of it this was also very dirty.
I took a can of air and basically freshened it up
It works perfect now.
Email me with any Q's at [email protected]
Good Luck
All that you need is a long phillips screw drive and a drill because its about 25 screws
The burner assembly has 2 screws all the in back underneath the assembly once you remove those 2 the assembly comes out .
You don't have to disconnect any wires.
SOURCE: Paloma tankless, gas, water heater, error code C7 76
If you look on the left hand side of the burner control module you'll see 4 capacitors - the capacitors have most likely failed...pretty sure anything code 76 is P/S failure. It may also be covered for manufactures defects. If the cap is blown..the top will be slightly raised as apposed to flat like the other nearby caps - they are called top blow capacitors...the damage should be evident.
Sediment clogs tankless pressure sensor without softener.
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