SOURCE: sharp carousel r-1481
Ceramic fuses of 15A or 20A rating are available at home improvement stores like Lowe's, places like Wal-Mart and local appliance stores.
Ceramic fuses are preferred because they are considered flameproof.
SOURCE: R-4H84 Sharp Carousel II microwave oven stoped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
The fuse is normally located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave door does not latch; oven does not work
We have
the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our
site here to help you.
You will need the free
Acrobat Reader
to view or print it in case you don't have it.
If
you gently push up on the door latch heads (hook-like devices sticking out of the door)
there should be spring tension. If they just flop right up, the spring
is off inside.
Normally the problem is
not the spring, but a broken
spring mounting tab on the door latch head (hook) assembly or the inner
door panel.
If it's the door panel,
it's usually easier and cheaper to use epoxy and some kind of hardware
to fashion a new spring mount.
The door latch head
(hook) is easy to replace or repair if that's the issue.
Normally
you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo)
and then you'll see the screws you need to remove.
Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) here that
demonstrates how it's done.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Door won't latch/microwave won't turn on
The door does come apart. Open the door and where the hinges are, there are openings where the hinges enter the door, this plastic piece (goes all the way around the door) With a small flat blade screws driver VERY carefully pry it (plastic) off, once off, check the latch end for the spring, typical failure for a Sharp is the little tab that the spring hooks to on the door, the only way to repair this so it will last is to replace the door frame. they are not too expensive, about $50 or so Part# FCOVB166KIT
is the door frame assy
SOURCE: Sharp r-1481 950 Watt microwave oven problen
Found the answer by calling a Sharp technician and they said it was the magnetron tube, which is not worth fixing :( Thought I'd pass this on to anyone that has yet to find out.
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