Heating My kettle is not heating electronicks looks fine. After about 1minutes 5 concecutive beeps comes out and that is all it does.

I had this same problem and I fixed it:
The main power relay failed (black box inside - 6 solder contacts).
The failed relay is: SongChuan 888HN-1AH-F-C
I replaced it with an Omron G2RL-1A-E-CF DC12 (found very easily online - eBay, Digi-Key) was $4 for the part and $8 for overnight shipping (in Canada). I couldn't find any locally.
The replacement relay doesn't meet the exact same specs, but it does work. The new relay has a 16 amp rating (instead of 17 amp) but our circuit breakers (most in North American households) go off at 15 amps anyways.
This was a very simple desolder-resolder fix. Everything is very accessible.

A couple checks that I did before replacing the relay:
Measured the resistance of the heating coil - was about 10 ohms, so good.
Applied voltage (from a 9 volt battery) to the coil contacts on the power relay (there are 6 pins total, 4 on one side, 2 on the other - the coil contacts are at the end with only 2 pins). The coil clicked, but there was no conductivity between the relay contacts on the other end (it should connect the end two pins to the middle two pins - take a look at the wiring diagram or schematic on the relay data sheet).

Other issues:
After fixing this problem, the kettle worked a few times and then it started blinking all of its lights (blue), beeping, and wouldn't start. I found that this was just a bad connection in the base. There is a small switch that registers when the kettle is in place. A bit of fiddling and a more secure reassembly of the base plate fixed this. I also wiggled the contacts and the spring posts, so that may have dislodged some slight surface corrosion or freed up a sticky contact.

Mine had the same problem. It ended up being the black box relay on the circuit board. I cut it open and it was rusted / corroded inside. It would click but it would not send any current to the heating coil. Not sure if you can get replacement parts from Cuisinart.

Poor engineering was the cause of my no-heat problem. Seems the cordrd base has a pair of vertical contacts with a small space between them. They spring apart when the solidly secured contact post in the kettle base slides between them upon seating the kettle on the base and are supposed to make secure electrical contact with the post to allow the heating element to do its job.

Problem is the two contacts in the corded base lose their ability to contact the post in the kettle base,. Then, no heating, although the lights all seem to work.Using a sturdy pin or scissor point it is possible to pull each of the corded base contacts back to a more central position where they will once again make good contact with the kettle base post when the kettle is seated on the corded base. Seems like I have to perform this little event about every 10-15th use.

Poor engineering as I said. Cuisenart's costly return policy keeps me from demanding a repair or a new kettle. It was my first and last purchase of a Cuisenart product. And I actively spread the word as to the poor engineering and lousy return policy to everyone I can. My latest estimate (I do keep a money count) as to how much retail $$ I have cost Cuisenart through asking what those I warn and who do not buy Cuisenart products because of my warnings is over $1600.00 and growing.

I'd say Cuisenart would have been far ahead in $$ to have had a more reasonable return policy, eh?

I had the same problem and fixed it with the same relay Robert Lion in a previous comment did. I got my part from Digi-Key (digikey.com), Digi-Key PN: Z2924-ND. Total cost: $5.95 including shipping, not overnight but cheap if you're not in a hurry for the part.

Unscrew the kettle if you can, remove the heating element test it by plugging it directly with another cable while it's not in water for less that 30 seconds unplug pour water on it if the water evaporates then it is working,next step remove the power supply component from the back of the kettle housing,dismantle it(note you must be able to return the kits properly)check inside there are two loose kits that attached to the rigid ones in the power supply component when you hit the button on,remove the loose ones and check for burnings and rust,get a fine sand paper and wipe them together with the rigid ones, assemble everything back then you are good to go good luck.

In my case the relay was fine, but the relay switching transistor was open circuit and its protection diode was shorted.
Also replaced the associated 47uF cap as it was very high ESR.