Dacor raised vent on/off button took 5-15 sec to turn on and now stop working

SOURCE: Dacor Raised Vent Buttons reply, [email protected]

There are two small screws on the bottom of the top lip. Remove them and pull out the endcap inserts. The top shoudl then pull up with maybe some light force. Then you can get to all the bottons.

SOURCE: Raised vent is Rising after being lowered

Fast forward to 2024: The same Dacor RV30 stop working. No lights. No response to key presses. Recycling power did nothing to correct the issue. Checked the PCB, discovered it was coated in grease, including the connector of the cable feeding the switchboard. I wondered how that happened. Even with the grease screens, grease found its way all the way down to the PCB and beyond. How long has that been happening? There is no baffle to prevent that from happening. Always check those grease screens to make sure they are sealed around the perimeter, but even still, I think grease will find its way down to the PCB.

There was no indication of burning on the PCB. Power across the fuse was good. I disconnected power to the unit then soaked the fragile female connector on the cable in a small plastic container of Simple Green overnight to remove the grease. Attempted to clean the male connector on the PCB, but since there was way too much grease on the PCB, I decided to replace the entire PCB out of an abundance of caution. The PCB looked okay, no burn marks like I had seen in 2009. Just a lot of grease. Which can be a fire hazard. After replacing the PCB, (the cheapest one I found was now $261.00) the vent still wouldn't work. No lights. No response from the keys.

I completely disassembled the keypad and discovered, it too, was soiled with grease. I cleaned the electrical contacts on the keypad PCB with rubbing alcohol and washed the touchpad assembly in warm soapy water, drying it immediately after.

After assembling the touchpad to the PCB prior to full installation to test functionality, the Dacor RV30 is once again working. Whew.

I cleaned the unit as best I could, installed the reassembled keypad and sealed the enclosure housing main controller board.

I ordered new grease screens ($40.000 and plan to seal the screens using aluminum tape around the perimeter. But I think, given the design, grease will once again find its way onto the PCB after a decade of use.

The grease-coated PCB I removed, will be washed in warm soapy water to remove the grease, and dried immediately after since I think it's still functional. If this fails again, I'll know the steps to take to resolve this issue, by more thorough inspection (and, if necessary, referencing what I just wrote on this website..lol).

Note the last two images - close up of the grease-coated connector and the keypad assembly.

Cheers.
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Hi,

My RV30S was installed by a qualified service technician in
approximately the year 2000. It finally developed a mind of its own.
It would raise up and run for a bit and then stop....sometimes it
wouldn't raise up or go down....it would switch from fast to slow to
stop.....it became frustratingly unusable....
...today i finally took it upon myself to take it apart and I determined that the controller board had fried.


Before I go on -> Disclaimer: These units are hard-wired to live
A.C. power. These units must be serviced by technically qualified
service personnel. I do NOT recommend anyone to attempt this service.
I've worked in the past as an electrical engineer by trade. But to save
you time and money you can shop and buy the parts you need yourself and
then hire an appliance service technician to safely install them for
you. This way they can't rip you off by over charging for the parts and
you can certainly count the hours for the install.


The controller board is shown here. In my case, this diode fried.




I found a replacement controller on E-Bay for only $82 bucks and change. At the time of this writing they had 14 in stock.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Dacor-Vent-Hood-Control-Board-DA-72881_W0QQitemZ120363680495QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRanges_Cooking_Appliances?hash=item120363680495&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

It sounds like you may be having the same problem. But please be sure
to hire a qualified appliance service technician to do the work. If he
quotes a price for the controller board anything over 82 bucks, you
will indeed will be in a better position to negotiate a better deal.


Hope this helps anyone that is having or will have the same problem with an older RV30....

SOURCE: New Dacor Vent does not work

Hi, we have a Dacor RV 30 (I think) and twice I have had the unit go up and down endlessly until I turn the breaker off. The problem was water getting inside the switch. The first time, I got a real Dacor replacement ($80?) the next time, I got the part number off the switch, googled it and got two of them for about $4 each plus shipping.

SOURCE: Dacor RV 30 raised vent. Replaced control board

First thing is to manually drive it and verify there is no stiction in the mechanism. Most driven systems not ONLY look at limit switches, but time out to turn off the motor should a limit switch fail to work. Being this is is a moist environment and OHMMETER check of the switches MAY be inadequate. The reason is that if the switches go to electronic controls, electrical leakage currents can be tiny and be read by the electronics as incorrect status. You should find that when the switches are open the resistance should be greater than 1 Megohm and less than 100 ohms when closed if they drive electronics. Electronic controls take tiny currents so small leakage currents can give false readings... similarly they typically don't require perfect continuity. If switches are showing readings that are not good, try putting some CRC226 available at Home Depot elect dept in the switches. It is a moisture displacer for electrical purpose. Use ONLY that product as there are other CRC ones that are not suitable.