NO POWER TO COMPRESSOR

basically you have 1 nuetral (wht) and a common(usually black, but in your case, RED). What you should do, is if you have a meter.? Set it for AC volts & check your power there and confirm that your white is neutral (use black or neg side, lead wire from meter and hold it on white) & (use the red or pos.side, lead wire from your meter and hold it to the red wire) being careful. always assume the electrical wires you are dealing with are hot and they can seriously hurt you. If you are in doubt, please, hire an electrician for this. if you are comfortable, then continue and have someone turn the switch on for you to confirm your power . Your meter should read 119-120 volts. somewhere in that range. if it reads -110 to -120 (neg. reading. it means your wires are crossed. and wht is pos or common and red is neutral rare but could happen.) so moving forward. say white is neutral & red is common everything check. then connect wht to wht, grn is ground so connect all grds together and connect those to a screw at the box or canopy bracket if its a clg fan. then connect the remaining blue wires to the red wire. this will power both the fan and the lights form the one switch. the only way to separate them is with the pull chain(s) coming down from 1 the fan motor & 2 the lights. Now, you can separate them and have independent control over them if you were to go with a wireless remote. they make one specifically designed for your situation. (just a thought) I hope this answers your question with a whole lot more questions. Let me know, ill be happy to answer them. good luck & BE CAREFUL!!

Lubricate the condensor fan with a parifin based oil like Union 76 turbine oil or "Zoom Spout" oiler. These fans are notorious for the bearings drying up on them.

Being careful.... touch the compressor copper lines. One should be very warm almost Hot to the touch.
Also with the unit unplugged..... note that there is a coolant drier with a small capillary tube coming out of one end. Tap the side of this by holding a hammer handle (wood) against it and hit it on the side with a screw driver handle.

Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is also running when the compressor is on. Anytime the compressor is running BOTH fans must be running. If you can not get the condensor fan up to full speed you will note that the chassis around the door seal area will be quite warm almost hot to the touch and the unit will not be cooling properly. Just for troubleshooting.... direct a fan at the condensor coils and see if the freezer compartment gets cold and that the chassis around the door seals is just warm.

Note about compressors in general.... if you unplug a unit.. it must settle / stabilize for 15 - 20 minutes so that the compressor can restart. Any power off periods less than 15 mins will result in the compressor cycling via the thermal overload every 4 minutes or so... and it does not run for more than 40 seconds when the overload kicks off the PTC relay power.

If you never feel the copper line off of the side of the compressor get hot then the unit has lost coolant.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Remove the cover to the fan, then remove the plug from the back of the fan. Connect a voltmeter to the 2 leads. Close the door switch and turn the fresh food thermostat to the coldest setting. This will call for cold and the fan should have 120 volts. If there is power to the motor replace the fan. No power check the thermostat. For help replacing the fan try this link http://appliancehelponline.com/sxsevapfan.html

Check to see if the fan motor has a separate fuse, if not then check to see if it has power (120 volts ac) with a DMM or volt meter. If it does then the fan motor needs replaced, if it dosen't then the fuse needs replaced or if it doesn't have a fuse, check to see if the switch is working correctly.

If you don't have a DMM or volt meter, or you do and don't feel comfortable testing it, then you'll need to have n a/c repair technician come out or take it into them if its portable.

Bad overload/relay (part plugged onto the compressor ) Remove and make sure there is contunity between all 3 compressor terminals . See if there is continuity between the terminals and the copper tubing ( indicates a bad compressor ) . If all checks ok , then replace the o/relay .

Check the relay and the compressor with a volt meter. Make sure that you are getting proper voltage. 110 - 120 volts at both the relay and the compressor. If nothing happens or everytime you try to test and the circuit keeps popping first check for bad wiring make sure nothing has come loose. If all the wiring checks out including the ground then the only thing that will pop a circuitbreaker is a bad compressor meaning it is drawing to many amp and you will either need to have a company replace the compressor for around 600 dollars or get a new unit

Got a volt meter? If so follow the voltage to wear you find none, it goes to the compressor and condensor fan.

First uplug the unit from the wall and make sure the fan spins freely by hand and has no slop or up and down motion in the shaft, if so, the sleeve bearings are bad and locking the fan, either an interlock knows no fan is spinning, or it shuts down on high or low pressure switchs.

If you have voltage all the way to the compressor and condensor and nothing is happening, it could be either the fan or compressor, no voltage means a switch as stopped it, or a wire fell off, or broke off a spade.

To check the sensors, they have may be on the high side or low, make sure of no power, take the leads of each switch, and measure for continuity, if a switch is open, it is likely the switch is bad,

These are not real complicated units, but if it is 220 and you are not comfortable measuring 220 volts, get a service tech over, it ain't worth you getting hurt or worse,

But you would be suprised if you unplug the unit, and just take a good look around, something obvious may show up.

measuring the sensors with no power to the unit should not be dangerous, and if the switch it looks like a round sensor sitting on either the larger tube or smaller, pull the wires off, and they must have continuity through the switch, an ohm meter set on x1 will tell you, put the two leads of the ohm meter together, and watch the dial or display of the meter, leads together gives you a closed reading, and that is what you want, look at the tester and hold the leads apart, if you get that when placing them on the switch one on one side one on the other you know it is open, and if it has not been running, it did not just go bad, it is bad, replace it or even jumper it out temp, to see if it will go, it depends on your skill and confidence level, but never fool with hot 110 0r any voltage if you are not familiar have someone to help, or are just not comfortable,

above all if it bothers you to measure voltage DO NOT

yes it is your getting proper voltage, fan simply went bad, center mullkion was the unit trying to disperse the heat the fan was not able to!

There may be power to the compressor. You can check it with a volt meter by checking the two electrical leads at their connections.
across the line you should read 120 Volts. This indicated power is there to the compressor and your overload protector may be open. The overload "protector" and "relay" can be ordered from Sears by your model and serial number along with the names of the parts for the compressor.

need to call ge for serviice it could be the compressor or the main control mother board , it also could be the compressor overload but it would be better for eyes on on this one since the parts are quite expensive if it trial by error

if you want to try and have a volt meter that reads ac voltage on 120 through 240 scale ,unplug the unit remove the cover on the compressor where the two wires are going to the compressor, place the meter probes onto the two wires and have someone pulg in the ref if u have 120 volts the compresso is bad, if 0 volts other problem