Question about Husqvarna Craftsman 36cc, 16 In. Gas Chain Saw
Chain saw starts but stops when i feed gas it bogs down and shuts off
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You may wnat to inspect the intake manifold/boot that mounts inbetween the cylinder and the carb. Also, the impulse tube that comes from the bottom of the cylinder to the carb manifold or carb itself. Sounds like you are running a lean condition. You need to locate the source very quickly, or continued operation will permantly damage the saw. I have listed a few other things to check.
Please let me know what you find. rwvanlue
Basics to check:
1) Spark plug - brown or dark brown - OK
a) is it carbon or fuel fouled (black and carbon deposits)
b) is there spark
2) Muffler remove for inspection
a) exhaust screen clean or plugged
b) inspect cylinder wall/piston as the flywheel is slowly rotated
3) Check cylinder compression
Fuel starvation - 'lean fuel' condition
Basic things to check:
1) spark plug
2) spark arrestor in muffler
3) fuel lines and tank filter
4) turn adjustment needles out (counterclockwise) 1/4 to 1/2 turn
5) check impulse tube and intake boot for cracks or leaks
*if all of the above are OK and/or do not improve performance then:
6) replace gaskets/diaphragms
a) use a spray carb cleaner to clean jets, holes, and body of carb
b) fuel pump diaphragm goes against the carb body,
then the gasket towards the outside
c) metering gasket goes against the carb body,
and the diaphragm goes towards the outside
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
Check the air filter and the muffler if either are plugged up it will not run smooth. Carb hi and low screws are very sensitive so if you change them, only move them a little at a time.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
I think your "L" adjustment is off by a little, but because it will not hurt, costs nothing, and might be the cause of this, remove, clean and reinstall the muffler and spark arrestor. If the problem persists try this, it is by far the best carburetor adjustment I have found.
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. Good Luck. HTH
Posted on Feb 24, 2010
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters and chainsaws.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Aug 18, 2011
Before you do anything else i think you need to check the engine is mechanically sound, remove the muffler, take a look at the piston skirt through the open port, any signs of scuffing on the piston and it will require removing the cylinder to assess the damage, they are x torq engines, due to the way the air ports work they are quite prone to carboning in the piston rings, make sure it has plenty of compression.
Posted on Aug 21, 2011
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