On start up dryer works correctly, plenty of air flow/clothes tumble and heater operates.
But after a short period of time the dryer looses it's heat function, the thermal trip has operated. Have removed the back and as with most wire wound elements the coils are now, 3 yr old appliance,bunched up at the terminal end.
Have cleaned out the condenser/fluff filter and the water outlet pipe.
Have own idea of the problem but has anyone got an idea on why it trips?
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you obviously have a short somewhere in the machine, Or its overheating due to bad venting, bad blower flow etc, it should not blow or trip ur breaker box though? has anyone bypassed any of the thermal fuses? I suspect u may have a short in the heater element broken wires touching metal and causing the fuse to trip
This caused by one of two possible things. Either you have poor air flow, or a clogged vent preventing air from flowing freely and therefor making the dryer short cycle, which in turn will take you two or three times to dry yor clothes, or the heating element has gone bad, burnt in half and is making contact with the case to provide it just enough power to barely heat. The second thing is a very rare occurance. I would turn the dryer on, find out where the air vents out to, and with the dryer running, go to where it vents and check to see if there is a strong flow of air. 9 times out of 10 that is going to be your problem. Another way to check air flow is to just pull the vent off the back and let the dryer run and see if your clothes dry faster. If you do it that way and they still take a long time to dry, then you'll probably need to replace the heating element
Try to reset the thermal cutoff, but should be no reason why it should have tripped. The actual operating procedure is The air enters the body of the dryer through the large opening in front of the dryer Then the air is sucked past the heating element and into the tumbler. (the tumbler is the large bin holding your clothes). Then after the air has circulated around the clothes, it enters the door and is directed down through the lint screen. (this catches lint from the drying process... some clothes producte more lint (such as towels) than others (such as panties) because the weave is more coarse. Then the air passes through a duct in the front of the dryer (after the lint filter) and into the fan. The fan forces the air into the duct leading out the back of the dryer, at which point it exits your house. It is extremely difficult to tell you the problem without being there to eliminate any one of several things that could be the problem. First, when you have the dryer turned on and have the heat setting set to cottons, is there ANY heat at all? If you feel the door, and there is SOME heat but there is not much heat on the clothes when you feel them, the intake opening in front of the dryer is probably in need of cleaning.
While you should always clean your lint filter after each use of your dryer, you should also periodically clean the intake at least once every six months. If you do not, the air intake is eventually restricted and the drying efficiency of the drye is affected. Consult your owner's manual for the exact location of the air intake.
IF THE INTAKE IS CLEAN and clear of obstruction, and there is still not enough heat to dry the clothes, but the door feels warm when dryer is operating. Then this would imply that the exhaust duct needs cleaned out. This is something that definitely needs done periodically to prevent fire. The exhaust duct collects additional lint that the lint filter misses. While this is a small amount of lint, over a period of time, this builds up on the inside of the exhaust duct and prevents the flow of the exhaust which reduces the heated air flow around the clothes in the tumbler. This results in the air not flowing and not becoming warm enough to dry the clothes efficiently.
IF THERE IS NO HEAT AT ALL: Then there is a likelihood that the heater itself needs replacement. This is a costly repair and you will be wise to invest in another dryer instead.
The working process of your clothes dryer is a relatively simple machine. It brings in air, heats the air, flows the air through the tumber where the clothes tumble loosely with the heated air circulating around them, then the air passes through the lint filter as it exits out your home. The lint filter is necessary because those tiny pieces of fabric (lint) can collect in your exhaust duct and catch fire. This is the major cause of dryer fires. This is why you should also periodically clean out your exhaust duct. Even though you have a lint filter, the lint filter does NOT catch all the lint and lint will eventually coat the interior walls of the exhaust duct.
The heated air inside the dryer is not expelled but reused. The drum is contained inside a closed area. The heat is contained inside the dryer. No ducting to outside is needed. The moisture is removed from the heated air through a condenser before re-entering the drum. Sorta like a giant self-contained dehumidifier. As the water is removed from the clothes, it puddles up into a drain pan which periodically needs dumping. Fancier models pump out the water to standing drainpipes. This design saves energy.
You are correct. Pull the dryer out and disconnect your venting from the back of the dryer. Turn your dryer on and check to make sure your dryer is blowing air out of the dryer duct. If it is then leave your dryer out at least 2 ft from the wall and run a load of clothes through the dryer. If it dries your clothes normally then you have a venting restriction. Check to make sure your venting is clean, not kinked or smashed, make sure your outside vent is opening an doesn.t have something blocking it. Check your lint screen filter by running water through it. If water is not flowing through it, you have a build up of fabric softener on your screen, blocking air flow. Scrub your screen off and test again. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
Common faults - 1 Theheating elementscan fail(meaning open circuit) 2 There arecut-outs (T.O.C's)thatmight need resetting 3 Thethermostats (stats)can tripout or burn out (meaning opencircuit) 4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors andpcb's (Printed circuitboards)thesehaveprograms that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcodeshowing you were the fault is. 5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also bethe fault.
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Replace both coils on the burner valve . After heating up , they will not open to let gas thru again until cooled down for a short period of time . With no heat , timer will not cut off unless set for timed dry .
washer dryer and dryer ony machines differ in a huge way. the big diff. is the drums on each are completly different sizes. the conventional dryer has the bigger, giving better air flow and tumble to clothes. the w/d has a smaller drum thus less air flow and less tumble between clothes. the best way to see this effect is remove half the clothes after a wash and then select a drying cycle. u will see that by giving the clothes more room to tumble free of each other rather than tumbling in a large ball will dry them. washer dryers are really only a marketing tool.
(ex main brand engineer)