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You will have more available power (and use a different larger breaker already on your generator) if you use the 220 plug instead of the 115v plugs. Have an electrician make you an breakout box separating the 220v plug into two 115v outlets. Or your can replace the push button breakers with better quality 25 amp. Problem is that the 115v receptacles are probably 15 amp. Other solution is to try a 220v pump instead of 115v (more efficient draws less amps). Good luck
There are several parts that are going to be check like the ff:
1. Glass fuse - Some unit replacing the fuse alone fix the problem.
2. Stepdown transformer - if it has then check for open/shorted winding.
3. Regulator I.C.
4. Fusible resistor.
All parts are on the power supply section.
1 & 2 can be DIY but 3 & 4 are needed to do by the techinician.
If you replaced the fuse and blew again then you have a shorted parts. However if it has no reaction then you might have an open parts.
If you want to fry your electronics or appliances that's it's a sure way to accomplish that.
While appliance working ONLY at 220v will just not work or under perform (like a hair drier) when plugging electronic equipment that runds ONLY at 110v then that item will be "fried" as all its electric components will be burnt as it will receive twice the power that it was build to receive. Should that happen the safety switch on the 220v circuit where the item was MISTAKENLY plugged will be triggered (hopefully or there will be risk of fire and serious injuries, even death) and the power will be shut off. That's a major but possible mistake.
If traveling abroad those who come to US will unlikely damage their appliances (like electric razors) as they will receive less power (110v vs 220v) and usually these items are protected against these mistakes by the specifications of their own design. The opposite is not true of course as just mentioned above.
So do not play around with dangerous items please! ;)
On a positive note though: Nowadays most appliances have dual power and should work whether plugged in a 110v, 60Hz (most common in US) or 220v 50Hz (most common in Europe). So nothing really happens... it just works as long as you have the proper adapters to plug the appliance to the different receptacles.
Note: One of the differences is that (without going into the math of it all), an appliance working at 110v will draw x2 times the power than it draws when working on 220v so if an appliance was drawing 3A at 110v it will only draw 1.5A when working at 220v.
The fact that everything but the power amp is still working, it could be only a fuse protecting the output that needs replacement although this fuse is probably circuit-wise after the main fuse you have already replaced and could be soldered on the board.
Worst case, the output modules are blown and require replacement and depending on the power level it may be worth repairing instead of replacing.
Most modern electronic devices can be set or adapted to line voltages from 100-240 Volts and a good percentage of the devices, using the common switched mode power supply don't need any changes made by the user since they can be inherently 'auto-ranging.'
i did the same thing when i was over seas, damn 220v, and all it did was blow the fuse in the unit, if you have an inline fuse (along the power cord) it might have blown there, if not you will have to take the unit apart and change the fuse, might be soldiered on the circuit board but its a relatively easy fix, just hope that the board itself didnt get shorted out, if so you will need to replace the system, i used this website when i was overseas and all my stuff got to me with in 10 days...
I don't know for sure, but I suspect that if you open it up, there should be a fuse near the power supply portion of the unit. It may have taken the hit for you and can perhaps be replaced easily.
(As a disclaimer... be sure the unit is not plugged in when you open the case! And only replace the fuse with another of equal rating.)
If it's not a fuse, then you probably smoked the primary winding of the transformer. If it got past that, you may have popped the rectifier and/or capacitor(s) in the power supply.