Water Leak from the hole where drain valve is attached

Hot water heaters are a collector of sediment. The proper care includes flushing out the collected debris through the low side drain faucet. The problem is the faucet is not designed correctly to carry out the needed task. If you are handy... turn off the water and gas or electricity to your water heater. Relieve the water pressure through the temperature/pressure relief valve on the side of the water heater tank. Once pressure is relieved close the valve. Determine if you have a 1/2 inch or a 3/4 inch diameter drain valve hole in the side of the tank where the drain valve is located. The drain valve can be removed with channel lock pliers, an 8 or 10 inch adjustable wrench, or a small 8 to 10 inch pipe wrench. Water will leak out the threaded hole while the valve is out. If everything is closed maybe 2 cups of water will leak out of the hot water tank as you check drain valve thread size. DO NOT take your time checking thread size. After you know the pipe thread size go to the hardware store ( Home Depot, Lowe's etc) purchase a short nipple (1 1/2 to 3 inch depending on available space) and a ball valve (brass) due to the water temperature. You will also need a brass adapter for pipe thread to garden hose thread (male both ends). This adapter goes into the ball valve to allow for the connection of a garden hose. Connect the pipe and valve together using the correct pipe thread sealant and install in place of the original plastic drain valve. Install pipe to hose adapter using thread sealant. With the ball valve in place turn the water back on. Gas or electricity back on. Connect a garden hose to the ball valve. Place the other end of the garden hose in a safe area as hot water and debris will be expelled through the hose. With water on, Gas or Electricity on and the relief valve closed actuate the ball valve to the full open position for approximately 3 seconds then close the valve. Repeat the open and close of the ball valve three times. Observe the debris that emptied out of the garden hose. You may be surprised at what you see. If the water runs clear, disconnect the garden hose the task is completed. You can wait until the following year to repeat the process. Your pipe and valve are now a part of the water heater, they may remain in place. Put the hose away.

Chisel out with big screwdriver and/or 7/8" hole saw.
Best way to force purchase of new heater is by replacing drain valve.
Instructions on following link.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-drain-valve.html

Gene


Water Heater Timers Save Money

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1) Copy following link for troubleshoot resources by type of gas control valve, Venting resources, and pro water heater forum:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

2) This odor can indicate incomplete combustion due to lack of air supply. Get more fresh air to unit. Check that flame is clear blue color. John Wood is American/AO Smith product so air intake screen is located on bottom of unit. Use mirror and flashlight to inspect. Clean with compressed air ad or feather duster.

3) Jw840nvh is 40 gallon natural gas. Natural gas is lighter than air and rises upward, unlike propane gas that is heavier than air. Install gas detector at height correct for type of gas.

4) For safety, install CO carbon monoxide detector

5) Review product manual for correct vent lengths and diameters.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I believe your water heater could have a 6 yr warranty. If its leaking then you should be able to get it replaced for free. Call the place you pruchased it at and see what their procedure is for returning it. Most places just allow you to bring it back and they will give you a new one. To uninstall, first shut OFF the breakers to the power or shut off the gas. Then shut OFF the valve to the water supply line and if there is a shutoff valve on the other water line line coming out of the heater, shut it off also. Once the water valves are shut off, remove the two water lines from the top of the unit. On the bottom of the unit you will notice a water faucet valve. Attach a garden hose to the valve and run the hose outside on the ground. Open the water valve and your heater will drain through the hose to outside on the ground. Then, with the power OFF, unattach the wires from the junction box or wherever they are attached or if it is a plug, then unplug it. If it is a gas model, unattached the gas line AFTER the gas is truned OFF. Once the water has fully drained from the tank then it should be ready to be moved. Reinstall the new tank in the same manner in reverse.

If you mean the drain valve, then buy garden hose cap at home center.
Cap will have rubber washer that seals tank.
If drain valve is plastic, the cap may not thread on without sanding down end of plastic drain valve.
Otherwise replace drain valve, which is simple if drain valve is brass, but can be difficult if drain valve is plastic.
Turn off power to water heater: Electric: turn off circuit breaker. Gas: turn knob to pilot.
Turn off water, open bathtub spigot on Hot side, drain water heater, remove drain valve with wrench.
If plastic drain valve breaks while being removed, then 'gently' break out broken part using hammer and big screwdriver.
Buy new drain valve at box store in water heater department.
Put teflon tape on new drain valve threads.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

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Very simple - call a Plumber. He will fix your plumbing problem, and any foreseen potential problems related to your water leak. He may also suggest replacing your 6 year old water heater. Of course ..... for a professional cost.
However, depending on your time, skills, proper tools, patience and luck, it's easy enough to perform yourself:
1. Switch off the water heater Breakers (220v) in your service panel.
2. Turn off the water supply to the water heater.
3. Attach a water hose to the drain faucet. ( a good time to flush sediment -calcium deposits)
4. Open a hot water faucet to vent (above the level of the water heater drain - kitchen sink)
5. Remove the suspected leak components. (a union connection is a good place to start)
6. Install New pipes -3 wrap all male threaded ends with teflon Tap. Tighten securely - using 2 wrenches.
NOTE: Before refilling - you can turn on the water heater supply valve for a few minutes, to flush out any lingering calcium debris.
7. Shut off drain valve - remove hose. Shut off venting hot water faucet.
8. Turn on water supply valve to fill water heater.
9. Open a hot water faucet to relieve air pressure while filling - preferably the bath tub faucet, it doesn't have a screen that might clog.
10. When water flows without air - shut off tub faucet.
11. Look for leaks.
12. Switch the water heater Breakers on.
Note: 50 gallons should take an hour or more to heat up. Turn on a hot water valve momentarily within this heat up time to relieve thermal expansion. ( the PT valve on your water heater will perform this task if pressures/temperature exceed new water heater tolerances - it's just a precaution to introduce these fluctuating pressures on your fragile 6 year old unit)

These are just basic instructions - assuming you fill in the common sense and work safe steps.
Good Luck - The Skill will only come after trying.

12 year old water heater is getting near the end.
Some tanks last 20 years, but that's the exception.
To find exact age of your brand water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/WaterHeaterSerialNumberDecoder.pdf

Leaking TP valve:
1) Lift TP lever and gently lower back into position to see if that stops leak.
Occasionally something gets stuck in the valve.
2) Sometimes water heater temperature gets turned up because heater is not producing as much hot water as before, and higher temps cause TP to release pressure because of overheating.
Dial temperature down to 120 degrees.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

3) If steps above don't fix problem, replace TP valve >> TP valves have 125 or 150 degrees rating >>> older tank shouldn't be running above 125 because higher temps cause more pressure on tank, so thermostat should be lower than 125 degrees TP rating.
Buy replacement TP at any hardware store + a roll of teflon tape to seal pipe threads.
Turn gas control to pilot ... this will keep pilot lit but burner will not fire.
Let water cool, and then drain some water out of tank.
If TP valve is on side of tank, then open drain on side of tank and drain water until it is lower than valve level. Open bathtub spigot to let air into line.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html
Be careful around water that is higher than 120 degrees F >> you can get burned quickly >> apply cold water to any burn.
Use pipe wrench and unscrew TP valve counterclock-wise.
Install new TP and put teflon tape on threads.
Re-fill tank completely and open tub valve on hot side until water is running >> then turn gas control back to original position.
Do not fire up any water heater before tank is completely full of water or this could damage tank.

To read more preventative information about water heater leaks and age problems:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html

proubly bad valve, need to determine weather natural or propane contact an American Standard dealer w mod and ser.#'s to obtain new valve. once you have the new part shut off gas, drain tank and replace valve. (Assuming thermocouple has been replaced)

If you are refering to the "Dripping coming from the preasure tempature valve,Then just turn off the valve where the water goes into the heater and open the P/T valve with a bucket below it draining only emought water to get below the level where it reaches.     Normally the drain valves are plastic with a Male hosebib attached.  Attach a  garden hose to the rain and run it out to a point lower that the vaslve in order for gravity to drain the tank.The valve opens counter clock wise. If the valve is stuck or does not drain,and you have a foor drain handy,remove the whole valve and replace it with a boiler drain valve.  If The tank is located below the drain level then you will have to either pump or carry the drain water to the higher level.     Replace the P/T valve  and reinstall the associated associated piping. I would use tefelon tape on the P/T pipe theads.    You may have to open a hot water faucet in order for the air to replace the water in the tank ,in order to drain. 

faulty, replace it because that leak has damaged the tank inside it must all rusty and will give up soon