Question about Maytag Ensignia MAV2757AWW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Drain pump does not run.

Washer works great, but drain pump does not come on before spin cycle. Lookin for a heads up before I take this thing all apart.

Posted by Maytagsucka on

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    washer is apart and drain pump is out washer will not work lite come on

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Anonymous

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  • 209 Answers

Check for electrical continuity on the pump if all is ok, strip for blockages take note of any wires and where parts come from etc work with safety unplug from power supply before removing panels

Posted on Oct 07, 2007

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Washer wont spin

The safety latch could be worn or stuck, the lid not closing tight enough to disenage the safety lever
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2answers

Water not draining from washer. cannot open door. isnt there just a spin cycle i could go to instead of the entire wash cycle? i have already put it through 2 more cycles hoping the spin would drain...

Hi lauraeuschwa,

I believe your drain pump filter is just clogged. The drain pump is trying to pump the water out before the Spin cycle, but can't. Usually this is caused by a foreign object that is obstructing the impeller. See my tip on how to access, drain & clean the Drain Pump Filter:

ACCESS, DRAIN & CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER

After this, the Spin cycle will run, after the drainage procedure. If it does not, then you may need to replace the Drain Motor. Which is a easy task.

Kind Regards :-)

* If this solution helped you, please rate it
0helpful
1answer

At the end of the normal wash cycle my washer begins to beep repetitively and shows an error code of F 02?. It will not spin and drain. We've began to switch it to Drain/Spin cycle and this works about...

Hi
Error F02 appears after 8mins of SUDs error. Error F02 means Long drain, means washer is taking longer time than normal to drain. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. NOTE: After 4 minutes the SUD error will be displayed, and then 4 minutes later the F02 error code will be displayed.
? Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
? Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running.
? Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
? If the above does not correct the problem, replace the pump.

There are 3 small 9/32 hex head screws that hold the front panel on. Unscrew the 3 hex head screws (9/32 socket or nut driver size), now remove the front kick panel. Unscrew the white drain cap -WARNING-- lots of water will drain out when you loosen the white cap. Once all the water is out, remove and take out the filter trap.
Hope this helps... Please post back for more information
Daniel
1helpful
1answer

WASHER WILL WASH ON ALL CYCLES, BUT WILL NOT DRAIN OR SPIN ON EITHER CYCLE

If the timer advances normally thru the spin and drain steps of the cycle you selected, than the problem that would cause neither spinning or draining, is the wash motor is not reversing. The motors is a two direction motor. It spins clockwise for normal agitation, but counterclockwise to engage the wash drum clutch and operate the drain pump. I would ask you to check for motor sounds at all during the spin and drain cycles. The pump reversing in the spin or drain cycles can be a function of the machine's lid safety switch, or if not the motor switch or timer contacts. The lid switch is first thing to check here, for sure! If the machine seems to stop running when it comes time to drain or spin, the lid switch is your best bet!

Hope this helps.

kcomp1863
0helpful
1answer

Hi, My washer does not do the final spin.....Everything else seems to work except the final fast spin. Is there anything i can do?

Stop using so much soap? These newer washer must use a slight amount of HE soap. Any other thing will cause motor over amping, burn up sensors, and cause the control to work overtime trying to remedy the problem. F35

ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer
component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.

Possible Causes/Procedure
Check if pressure hose is fixed correctly.
Check if the airtrap is not blocked.
Check if the hose is not blocked.

Make sure you are ONLY using HE SOAP!
Correct usage amounts are as follows:

Regular HE SOAP = 2 Tablespoons
2X HE SOAP = 1 Tablespoon
3X HE SOAP = 1 Teaspoon

The information on the soap usage comes directly from Whirlpool Tech Line.

SUDS LOCK (OVERDOSE OF DETERGENT DETECTED DURING THE
WASH CYCLE)

If suds are detected continuously by the pressure switch during the drain
or spin phases, the washer will fi ll 4 liters of water and during 5 minutes
the unit will rest without tumbling, the water will be drained and it will try
to spin or drain again.

Possible Causes/Procedure

If too much detergent was used:
Run through a RINSE/SPIN cycle.
Run a NORMAL cycle without adding any detergent.
This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
Unplug washer or disconnect power.
Check wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure switch,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
Plug in washer or reconnect power.
Check drain pump.
Check the pressure switch.
Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.
More Here

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

3helpful
2answers

What does 5d mean?

If suds are detected continuously by the pressure switch during the drain or spin phases, the washer will fill 4 liters ofwater and during 5 minutes the unit will rest without tumbling, the water will be drained and it will try to spin or drain again.


Possible Causes/Procedure
If too much detergent was used:
Run the unit through a RINSE/SPIN cycle.
Run a NORMAL cycle without adding any detergent.
This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.

1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure
switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Check drain pump.
7. Check the pressure switch.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any Cycle.
3helpful
1answer

My top-loading Inglis Liberator washer doesn't spin

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
0helpful
1answer

Will not drain i installed new pump and belt and it still wont drain a drop spins great

As long as the washer is running in the spin cycle, it should drain. The plug I am talking about is in the machine hoses. Sometimes a belt can jump off the pump pulley and not spin it fast enough. If you set the hose in a bucket or floor drain, will the washer drain?
There are no other switches that control the pump.
0helpful
1answer

Washer won't spin

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
0helpful
1answer

Roper washer does not drain

Alicia7q : Faulty water pump or restriction in drain line between tub and outlet hose.

arlenekc,: That metal thing is part of the motor. What you have is a leaking water pump.

badwasher,: Check the lid switch. This machine will not spin or drain if the switch is faulty.
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