Adding speakers to the output

What are your front channel speakers connected to? Or are you just using the TV speakers for that? Most TVs don't have a dedicated subwoofer output and that's a necessary level of pre-amp out to give the subwoofer proper low frequency signals. If you have an amp/receiver then it probably has a subwoofer output.

That's a 500 watt continous power speaker please ensure you amp able to push these speakers. If it is speaker wire just needs to go from the front speaker output to the speakers input.
these are alos biampable which would be a better setup

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The 600 watt rating is FAKE like most of our advertising and will be either 600 watts PEAK or 600 watts PROGRAM. If it is Peak, use an amplifier with no more than 100 watts a side RMS... If it is program rating use an amp with no more than 150 watts a side RMS but that is pushing it for speaker safety. Also pay attention to the spec of the amp as to what it will output at the impedance of the speakers. I read the spec on the speakers... they are rated 150 watts RMS, NOT 600 watts... Use an amp rated at 150 watts RMS MAXIMUM at 4 ohms per side. Also don't turn up the bass excessively or you be buying new speakers. Twelve inch speakers would be adequate for a 20 by 20 room at SAFE listening levels. If you want driving bass, you need to get an 18 inch subwoofer.

This set doesn't have a headphone jack, nor does it have RCA audio output jacks. Without one or the other, you're out of luck connecting headphones to this TV.

I remember a product some years ago that allowed adding headphones using a small microphone placed in front of the speaker. This was hooked to a little amplifier that ran the headphones so the volume could be independently controlled. It was marketed as a way to let "hearing-impaired" family members listen to TV shows without needing to make it uncomfortably loud for others. I haven't looked, but something similar might still be available. It's cumbersome, though, and needs power, plus maybe being costly if you find one.

It's possible to add a headphone jack, but you need to know how to do electronic soldering. Find a spot on the case where you can make a hole and mount a headphone jack, then wire it to the speakers. If you want the headphones to cut off the speakers when plugged in, you need a switching jack, and the speaker wires need to be cut and connected to the correct terminals. The switch built into the jack then disconnects the speakers when the headphone plug is in. If you don't need to turn off the speakers it's a little easier. You just need to wire from the jack to the speaker terminals. I've added jacks on quite a few sets. If you don't feel up to it and don't know anyone who is, you can see if a TV shop (if there are any left in your area!) would do it. (The shop I used to work for charged about $20, including the jack, but that was over 10 years ago now.)

Good luck, and thanks for using Fixya!

Yes, you will be fine. 4 gauge power wire is sufficient for a couple of reasons, the primary one being that most of the companies that are boasting 2000 watts for a 4 channel amp are off brand "web-retail only" companies, and they severely over rate the power output of their amplifiers. Secondly the supposed 2000 watts is peak power and not rms power. Peak power means how much power that amp can put out during absolue climax of the music or during a tone burst. RMS power is how much that amp will put out continously to your speakers or in this case, your subs. If you look at the spec sheet of that amp, in all actuallity you're probably only getting 200-300 watts rms even bridged.

On a side note, if you really want to push your subs hard, you might want to consider getting a mono block or "class d" amplifier and use that 4 channel amp to push your surround speakers. Class d/mono block amps are specifically designed to push subwoofers and will give you the most efficient power out and the best heat dissipation to withstand the output required to drive subwoofers. You'll get better bass and also more adjustability to tweak the sound levels coming out of your subs. Hope that helps.

Yes, you need an amplifier, since the "levels" of the sound-output from each device (TV, CD-player, cassette-player, Sony mini-disk player, turntable) are not sufficient to physically move the "cones" inside your speakers, to push air around, to produce sounds.
You need "watts" of power to push air, while the devices produce milli-watts (watts/1000) of power.

Also, the amplifier is also a "decoder", electronically processing the input to produce "5-channel" (left, front, right, back-left, back-right) surround-sound output.

DON'T NEED A SEPERATE AMP THE SYSTEM HAS ONE IT IS PART OF THE CABINET THE DVD PLAYER IS IN, YOU CAN HOOK IT TO THE TV WITH A HDMI CABLE OR STANDARD VIDEO CABLE OR A PROGRESSIVE SCAN CABLE SETUP, FOR AUDIO U CAN USE STANDARD RCA CABLES, OR DIGITAL AUDIO, CHECK TO TO SEE WHAT OUTPUTS AND INPUTS THE TV G THE TV HAS ALSO CONSULT YOUR USER MANUAL FOR THE SURROUND SOUND. HERE ARE THE SPECS FOR THIS SYSTEM.
1000 WATT system total program power
5.1 Cube cinema HTS, 12 active drivers/magnetically shielded
I-Cube design satellite system
4 Multi-directional 2-way speakers()
center channel has 2-way with horn tweeter enclosure (200 WATTS)
Dual sub-woofers 400 WATTS; 2X6.5" aluminum poly-laminate cone
linked through digital custom crossover circuitry finished in: high-gloss piano and composite black w/silver brushed aluminum
complete 6 piece system (HTS surround speakers

According to the specs for the xo 1945- the output is; 50W x 4 Max Power Output , and I do not see a pre amp output listed. So I think to connect subs, you will need a separate AMP.
The way this works; the rear speaker wires from the xo 1945 hook into the Add-on amp, for example a 4 channel amp. In a 4 channel amp, the rear speakers come off two of the channels of the add-on, and the subs come off the other two channels. There is also the option of bridging two channels for more output power to ONE sub.
You did not mention what size sub(s) you were thinking of adding, but keep in mind that the ox 1945 puts 50 watts MAX per channel. So, if you add two 12" subs and a 1500 watt amp to drive them, your total sound is going to be very uneven.
If you go on line and look up auto audio or amps, you'll get a good idea of all the Sub and amp options that are available.... Hope this helps.

From a former DJ, make sure that the speaker circuit is matching the load that is required by what ever amp that you are using. If the amp is rated at 1000watts/ channel into 8 ohm's then your equivalent speaker circuit has to match. I repeat has to match! If it does not the amp will either short out or be overloaded. If you are using all 8 ohm speakers on a amp that rate its output at 1000 watt/8ohms then you you have to match the watts and the ohms. Depending on how much power your speakers take you may have to use more than one speaker to handle the power. If you have to use more than one speaker you will have to use a series/parallel circuit to keep the ohms at 8ohm. You have to use ohms law for adding resistor in series and paralell. If more is needed please reply.

yes, just tap in at one of the speakers. The jack should have an internal switch so that the internal speaker is hooked up when the headphones are not in. Most TVs are now stereo (even though analog broadcast signals are mono) so may want to get a stereo jack and tie in from both speakers.